Did you know that Red Hen Turf Farm produces and sells 2 kinds of sod?
Since 2018, we have carried both our flagship 100% Kentucky Bluegrass Sod, and more recently our “Tall Fescue Sod”.
Of these 2 choices, our Kentucky Bluegrass Sod is a more popular cool-season turf grass that is specific to our Midwest region.
CLICK TO SEE THIS IMAGE LARGER
By far, the majority of sod we sell is our Kentucky Bluegrass Sod.
So what are the main differences between Red Hen’s two types of Sod, and why might you choose one over the other? We get this question a lot.
FOR A QUICK SUMMARY…
Our Red Hen 100% Kentucky Bluegrass Sod (aka KYB Sod or Bluegrass Sod) is a beautiful, lush, and finely textured natural grass. It is a blend of four high quality, top performing seed varieties, and is widely used on golf courses, athletic fields, and home lawns.
Our Red Hen Tall Fescue Sod (aka Fescue Sod or Tall Fescue Sod or Red Hen Fescue / Ky Blue Blend Sod … etc) is MAINLY comprised of Turf-Type Tall Fescue and a bit of Kentucky Bluegrass. Red Hen’s Tall Fescue Sod is grown for its superior density, dark color, and fine leaf texture. The fescues in this mix provide increased spreading ability, deep rooting, and are drought tolerant. The fescues and Kentucky Bluegrass in this mix provides lower irrigation requirements once established.
But, to dive in deeper, let’s start by focusing on Red Hen’s KENTUCKY BLUEGRASS SOD …
Did you miss the optimum time for seeding this fall? If you are wondering when that was, typically in our region (Northwest Indiana and Southwest Michigan) the number 1 very best time to plant grass seed is between August 15 and September 15.
It’s November 4th, 2021 and we are still getting daily customer questions about seeding at this time of year and it’s really too late and would be a waste of time and money. Mother Nature is not going to let your seed grow enough to make it through a frost and our soon-to-come harsh cold temperatures.
Any grass seed planting after September in our region can be risky due to freezing ground temperatures. Once the seed germinates in anywhere from 3 days to 3 weeks (more on germination can be read HERE), it will need a couple more weeks to mature enough to withstand the freezing and often unpredictable Indiana temperatures so planting too late may not be successful.
TOO LATE AND NOT FEELING GREAT ABOUT WAITING UNTIL SPRING?
THERE’S A SOLUTION!
Why not step out of your comfort zone and opt for what is often referred to as a “dormant seeding“? Using the method of “dormant seeding” also happens to typically be the 2nd best option timing-wise to plant grass seed in our region.
“Dormant seeding” simply refers to the fact that if you put the seed down once the ground is frozen for the season, the seed will lie dormant or inactive until soil temperatures are warm enough to germinate in the EARLY spring and give you a head-start compared to doing the seeding in the spring.
You can use any seed you want to use for this method of seeding.
Unsure what seed to choose? Pick a high-quality seed for best results.
Here are a few options we sell in our store:
Red Hen 100% Kentucky Bluegrass Sod Blend Seed …
This sod-quality seed will match our most current variety of Kentucky Bluegrass sod in production. This seed will require some extra attention to establish, but it exhibits the same beautiful deep green color and disease resistance that Red Hen’s sod does. This seed takes 21 days to germinate and will be very slow to fill in.
AVAILABLE PRICED BY THE POUND or by 50 LB BAG.
Rates: NEW SEEDING: 4 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft /// OVER-SEEDING: 2 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft
Red Hen 90/10 Tall Fescue Sod Blend Seed
Also referred more simply as our Red Hen “Fescue Seed” or “Tall Fescue Seed”, this seed will match our 90/10 Tall Fescue Sod in production. It’s currently comprised of 90% Tall Fescue Seeds with rhizomatous-type roots, and 10% Kentucky Bluegrass. The fescues in this mix provide increased spreading ability, deep rooting, and are drought tolerant. The fescues and Kentucky Bluegrass in this mix provides lower irrigation requirements once established. This seed takes 7-14 days to germinate.
AVAILABLE PRICED BY THE POUND or by 50 LB BAG.
Rates: NEW SEEDING: 8 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft; /// OVER-SEEDING: 4 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.
Greenskeeper Custom Mix Seed …
OUR MOST POPULAR SEED! Works well in full sun and light amounts of shade. This variety contains 3 types of grass seeds and each type will germinate at a different time.
AVAILABLE PRICED BY THE POUND or by 50 LB BAG.
Rates: NEW SEEDING: 6 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft /// OVER-SEEDING: 3 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.
Greenskeeper Premium Shade Mix Seed …
While no grass loves shade, this blend has varieties that exhibit better growth habits in partially shaded areas.
AVAILABLE PRICED BY THE POUND or by 50 LB BAG.
Rates: NEW SEEDING: 6 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft /// OVER-SEEDING: 3 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.
Greenskeeper Super Shady Seed …
If you have less than 2 hours of direct sunlight and have tried to other shady mixes with little luck, this may be the grass seed for you! This mix contains includes 5% Poa Supina bluegrass seed – some of the highest tech shad grass seed on the market.
AVAILABLE PRICED BY THE POUND or by 25 LB BAG.
Rates: NEW SEEDING: 6 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft /// OVER-SEEDING: 3 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.
Excellent blend of fine fescues ideally suited for low maintenance and shady areas. Superb under low managed conditions with unmatched shade tolerance.
AVAILABLE ONLY BY THE 50 LB BAG.
Rates: NEW SEEDING: 8 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft /// OVER-SEEDING: 4 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.
Valu Mix Seed
Satisfactory for utility-type general usage areas where economy is important. Truly an all-purpose contractors mix with rapid establishment.
AVAILABLE ONLY BY THE 50 LB BAG.
Rates: NEW SEEDING: 6 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft /// OVER-SEEDING: 3 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft.
For good timing on a dormant seeding, we typically suggest waiting until December and getting it done prior to March, but it all depends on ground and air temps. Basically, you want to wait until the ground has frozen and will stay that way until spring so that the seed you put down stays dormant the entire time. If we were to have a warm-up spell for a length of time, the seed MIGHT start the germination process a bit, and then become vulnerable to being killed off once the freezing temperatures return.
You will need to make sure your site is prepared for seeding prior to snow fall, as you would a typical spring or fall seeding.
Starter fertilizer is not needed, since the grass is not actively growing, but be sure to get some fertilizer (without crabgrass or broadleaf herbicides!!!) down after the ground thaws to help give the new seedlings a good spring boost.
Simply broadcast the seed at the rates recommended, sit back
(enjoy a hot chocolate) and wait for spring.
Sound strange? How does it work? When the ground freezes and thaws during the winter months, the earth heaves and cracks, eventually making room for seed to fall into the soil where it will wait in a DORMANT STATE for warmer weather to germinate in the spring.
Some challenges to consider with dormant seeding (overall, less challenges than spring though!):
Birds love seed and since food is scarce in the winter you may get some visitors. You might try seeding in the later winter months (February or early March) for better results.
If we get an early sprig warm-up followed by winter settling back in again, there is potential for snow or freezing AFTER the seed has started to germinate.
You won’t be able to use certain herbicides — such as pre-emergent crabgrass herbicides — until after the new grass’s roots system has grown enough to have been mowed at least 2-3 times.
Unsure about trying a dormant seeding? Try sodding instead.
We harvest sod well into November and sometimes as late as December. The cooler months give off just the right amount of hydration so little water is needed during this time. As long as the site is prepared, you can lay it on frozen ground, the sod will go dormant, and it will “wake up” and finish rooting in the spring. (Surprising, huh?)
Read more on seeding and our 2 types of sod at these other Red Hen blog articles:
Did you know that there are certain times of the year that are better to plant grass seed than others? If not, you’re not alone.
It turns out that in our part of the country, often the BEST TIME to plant Cool Season Grass Seed is in the LATE SUMMER / EARLY FALL.
Specifically, in the northern-third Indiana, August 15th through September 15th is the ideal time period to plant Cool Season Grasses. (One exception to this rule would be if you have a heavy shaded area due to trees, in which case you might want to consider a winter or spring seeding when the leaves have fallen and more sunlight can reach your soil bed.)
Air and soil temperatures are more moderate, which improves seed GERMINATION.
It typically rains more frequently, which helps reduce (but may not eliminate) extra watering … this also improves your chances for successful seed GERMINATION.
Grass seedlings face fewer pests than they do in the spring or the hottest parts of summer, again improving GERMINATION.
A FEW TIPS TO IMPROVE YOUR ODDS FOR BETTER SEEDING RESULTS
First, let’s talk about what method of seeding or over-seeding you might consider. Many people try to simply cast the seed by hand or by using a spreader and leave it at that. But is this the most efficient way?
The answer is NO for several reasons, including the fact that rain or wind will likely carry much of this seed away and it will never grow. Or much of it will become a yummy meal for wildlife. Also, without giving the seed a thin layer of soil over the top to grow in, there’s a good chance your rate of success will go way down. To achieve this, you can rent a slit seeder or a core aerator at most local garden centers. We recommend using either a slit-seeder to plant your seed, or using a core aerator first and then seeding into the cores. These methods protect the seed from being carried away, and provide the much needed soil bed for the seed to germinate.
Let’s go a little deeper…
New grass seedlings have poorly developed root systems, which means they cannot effectively absorb nutrients from the soil.
For this reason, it is important to WATER and FERTILIZE PROPERLY after seeding to encourage germination and establishment.
Fertilizer Application #1 – Do this right after planting your grass seed. We recommend using 12-12-12 (or another starter fertilizer). The rate of application will depend on the species of grass you are planting. You should also water 2-3 Times each day while the seeds are in the process of germinating. Apply enough water to keep the soil moistened. When you see the new grass plants (seedlings), you may reduce the number of times you water.
Fertilizer Application #2 – 4-6 weeks after planting (depending on the type of grass seed you’ve planted). Use some more of the starter fertilizer that you applied in the first application. Again, the rate of application will depend on what kind of grass you’ve planted. Continue to water as needed to prevent the soil from drying out. However, be careful that you do not keep the soil saturated, leaving your new grass vulnerable to pests and diseases.
Fertilizer Application #3 – Do this 4-5 Weeks after your 2nd Application (once again depending on the type of grass seed you’ve planted).Our 25-0-10 fertilizer would be perfect for this 3rd Application. Or, for the 3rd Application, you could apply a broad leaf herbicide if needed to control broadleaf weeds (such as our 22-0-5+Trimec+Iron). On the other hand, if you’re dealing with grassy weeds, they are difficult to kill with herbicides, so proper mowing is your best choice for controlling them.
PURCHASING GRASS SEED AT RED HEN TURF FARM
Here at Red Hen Turf Farm, we sell several varieties of grass seed by the pound, which is handy whether you have a very small or very large area to plant.
Contact us for prices and recommendations based on your specific needs and goals.
Some of your choices for grass seeds here at Red Hen include:
Red Hen 100% Kentucky Bluegrass Seed …
This sod-quality seed will match our most current variety of Kentucky Bluegrass sod in production.
Aa beautiful, lush, and finely textured natural grass – definitely the BEAUTY QUEEN of our 2 types of sod
A blend of four high quality, top performing seed varieties
Widely used on golf courses, athletic fields, and home lawns.
Fertilizing Needs for our Kentucky Bluegrass Sod will be 4-5 applications each calendar year
Seed can be used to patch small areas in existing sod or seeding a large area next to sod.
Takes 21 days to germinate and will be very slow to fill in.
Will require some extra attention to establish, but it exhibits the same deep green color and disease resistance that Red Hen’s sod does.
AVAILABLE IN 50 LB BAGS, OR IN BULK BY THE POUND.
Red Hen Turf-type Tall Fescue Sod Mix (90/10) Seed …
This seed blend mix matches our Current Tall Fescue Sod
Comprised of 90% Rhizomatous Tall Fescue and 10% Kentucky Bluegrass
Superior density, dark color, and fine leaf texture.
The fescues in this mix provide increased spreading ability, deep rooting, and are drought tolerant.
The fescues and Kentucky Bluegrass in this mix provides lower irrigation requirements once established.
A great choice for sites without installed sprinkler system and for sandier soil types.
Fertilizing needs for our Tall Fescue Sod Seed Mix will be closer to 1-2 applications each calendar year, focus on applying during the fall months because in the fall, the grass plant will use what it needs, but store some of the nutrients for the next season, making your dollar stretch further.
The fescue seeds in this mx take 7-10 days to germinate and the Kentucky bluegrass seeds in this mix will take 21 days to germinated and will be slower to fill in.
AVAILABLE IN 50 LB BAGS, OR IN BULK BY THE POUND.
Red Hen 100% Turf-type Tall Fescue Seed …
Comprised 100% Rhizomatous Tall Fescue
Superior density, dark color, and fine leaf texture.
The fescues in this mix provide increased spreading ability, deep rooting, and are drought tolerant.
Fertilizing needs will be closer to 1-2 applications each calendar year
A great choice for sites without installed sprinkler system and for sandier soil types.
This mix will take about 7-10 days to germinate
Greenskeeper Custom Mix Seed …
OUR MOST POPULAR SEED!
Works well in full sun and light amounts of shade.
This variety contains 3 types of grass seeds and each type will germinate at a different time.
The ryegrasses in this seed mix should germinate in 3-5 days, the fescues will germinate in 7-10 days, and the bluegrass seeds will germinate in about 21 days.
AVAILABLE IN 50 LB BAGS, OR IN BULK BY THE POUND.
Greenskeeper Premium Shade Mix Seed …
While no grass loves shade, this blend has varieties that exhibit better growth habits in partially shaded areas.
The ryegrasses in this seed mix should germinate in 3-5 days, the fescues will germinate in 7-10 days, and the bluegrass seeds will germinate in about 21 days.
For more information, visit the “Grass In Shade” section of our website. A
VAILABLE IN 50 LB BAGS, OR IN BULK BY THE POUND.
Greenskeeper Super Shady Seed …
If you have less than 2 hours of direct sunlight and have tried to other shady mixes with little luck, this may be the grass seed for you!
This mix contains includes 5% Poa Supina bluegrass seed – some of the highest tech shad grass seed on the market.
The ryegrasses in this seed mix should germinate in 3-5 days, the fescues will germinate in 7-10 days, and the bluegrass seeds will germinate in about 21 days.
AVAILABLE IN 25 LB BAGS, OR IN BULK BY THE POUND.
Greenskeeper Valu Plus Mix …
An affordable option, good for rapid establishment.
Primarily consists of ryegrasses, with some Kentucky Bluegrass and Creeping Red Fescue.
The ryegrasses in this seed mix should germinate in 3-5 days, the fescues will germinate in 7-10 days, and the bluegrass seeds will germinate in about 21 days.
AVAILABLE IN 50 LB BAGS ONLY
Greenskeeper Low-Mow National Links Mix …
Consists of low-growing fine fescues well adapted to the harsh conditions of golf course roughs and bunker faces.
Left unmown, this formula provides maintenance savings, erosion control, and adaptation under varying soil conditions.
The fescues will germinate in 7-10 days
AVAILABLE IN 50 LB BAGS ONLY
What’s more, if you don’t see what you are after, we may be able to special order the seed you need. Just let us know the seed specifications you have and we will do what we can to get it for you for a reasonable cost.
Contact Red Hen Turf Farm … Whether you’re a recent customer, a customer from years or even decades ago, or you’re simply looking for information or pricing, we’re here to help. What’s more, regardless of whether you end up purchasing anything from us, we genuinely enjoy talking with and educating people. Give us a call (574-232-6811) or drop us an email (turf@redhenturf.com).
New seeding requires 12-18 months of intensive nurturing to establish into a lawn.
True or False: Sod requires more fertilizer and herbicides.
False.
Compared to seed, sod is professionally grown, healthy and mature. Properly grown sod has minimal (if any) weeds and pests therefore, there is no need to apply herbicides. All you need to do is feed it a few times a year with a standard fertilizer to keep it green, thick and healthy. As long as it’s thick and healthy, chances of getting weeds or pests are slim. Seeding will need multiple treatments of herbicides and starter fertilizers throughout it’s establishment. Not to mention young seedlings are more susceptible to disease causing bacteria and fungus than mature turf grass.
Grass seedlings.
True or False: Sodding is more expensive than seeding.
Trick question – you decide!
Initially you may think sodding is more expensive than seeding. However, add all the herbicides, pesticides, fertilizers, watering’s, wash outs, dirty pets and kids tracking in mud, and the time and labor it takes to carefully crop your seedlings into mature turf grass for 18 months, you may think twice. You must decide the trade off and if 18 months of your time and labor is worth it. In the end, do you have a quality product even close to what is grown on a turf farm? In the long run, we feel sodding and seeding costs are fairly equal. There is also soil quality to think about. Seeding on less than desirable soils leave you with questionable results. You may have to add top soil into your current soil to get better nutrients to grow grass from seed, which adds to your expenses. Sod can survive and thrive on all types of soils.
Red Hen’s Kentucky Bluegrass field.
If you aren’t that picky about the quality of your lawn, like to watch plants grow, or have the time to nurture and learn about growing turf from seed, then seeding may be for you.
Let’s not forget one important factor in seeding. There is a small window of time to plant grass seed whereas sodding can be done anytime (as long as we are harvesting). Click here to find out when the best time to seed is: Establishing Turfgrass Areas from Seed: Purdue
Some customers are quite successful at seeding. Here’s an example of before and after photos from a customer who over-seeded his lawn using a slit seeder.
Photo Cred: David LoshPhoto Cred: David LoshPhoto Cred: David Losh
We hear it a lot from those who have seeded and failed, “I wish I would have sodded my lawn.” Seeding is not for everyone. Never fear, we are always here to help with questions whether you decide to seed or sod your lawn. Measure up your area, call us and we’ll give you pricing on both sod and seed, fertilizers, herbicides and more. We don’t do installations, but can recommend a good landscaper in your area if you aren’t interested in D-I-Y projects.
by Lisa Courtney, Customer Support, Red Hen Turf Farm
At certain points throughout the year, we start getting calls asking, “Do I need to be thatching my yard? It looks like I’ve got a LOT of thatch.”
So, what is thatch?
First of all, healthy grass can have a small amount thatch. Some is good, more is not. Most lawns do have thatch, and in small amounts it’s kind of like the padding under a carpet, providing a resilient, springy surface to walk on. It is thick EXCESSIVE THATCH that gives this normal aspect of lawns a bad name.
Thatch is a layer under the growing grass you see, comprised of an intermingled layer of lawn clippings and other living and dead plant stems, leaves, and root matter that gather at the base of the grass, between the soil and green vegetation.
Thatch does not necessarily mean you will have issues – it’s more about HOW MUCH thatch is present. You only have a “thatch problem” if the thatch layer gets so thick so that water and air have trouble getting to grass roots.
EXCESSIVE THATCH comes about from practices that make the grass grow faster that soil organisms can break it down, or that reduce beneficial soil organisms such as earthworms, insects, and microscopic species. The practices that cause the type of overly-rapid growth that can lead to EXCESSIVE THATCH include over-fertilizing, over-watering, and/or causing soil compaction.
EXCESSIVE THATCH may:
Prevent water, air, and nutrients from reaching the soil and grass plant’s root zone,
Reduce tolerance to drought and temperature extremes
Provide a protective environment for insect pests like webworm larvae, chinch bugs, and billbugs
Provide an environment that encourages fungus disease
Prevent some insecticides and herbicides from penetrating the soil, which makes them ineffective
Obstruct overseeding
A thin ¼-½ inch layer of thatch actually can provide benefits like surface cushioning, greater tolerance to wear and tear, and better temperature moderation.
EXCESSIVE THATCH of 1 inch or more can, however, cause a host of lawn problems. Grass varieties that tend to produce thatch more slowly are fescues and perennial ryegrass, whereas grasses like zoysia, Bermuda, and bluegrass tend to produce more thatch.
The GOOD NEWS is that in most cases, people really don’t have an EXCESSIVE THATCH PROBLEM at all. How can you tell?
If you mow frequently enough so as not to remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at a single mowing where you’re cutting less than 1 inch of the leaf blade, the clipping will disperse and and decompose with sunlight and moisture quite quickly …. LONG BEFORE they can accumulate and become “excessive thatch”
If, on the other hand, you are not mowing regularly and end up cutting more than about 1 inch of the blade, it takes longer for these clippings to decompose and they can suffocate your lawn.
Get a little hands on! Whenever you mow, take a minute to scout things out, like a Farmer does for their crops. Use your finger to dig down around the base of your grass plants. If all you find is bare dirt, then you do not have an excessive thatch problem. Check again a couple of days after you mow. The clippings you leave should be barely noticeable.
If you wanted to measure the thickness of thatch (and again, healthy grass has thatch!), poke around the grass until you find the brown layer near the bottom of the grass blade. With your finger or a stick, poke a hole through the brown layer to the top of the soil, and measure the thickness of the thatch. If your thach layer is less than 1/2″ thick, it’s not a problem, and you can leave the grass alone.
If you’re still a little skeptical about leaving your clippings on your lawn after mowing, Regional Turfgrass Experts at Purdue University explain:
Clipping removal is generally not recommended on most turfgrass areas. Clippings do not contribute to thatch because they are primarily water and break down quickly. Furthermore, returning clippings will recycle valuable nutrients to the soil thereby reducing fertilizer requirements. Clippings are not harmful if your mower spreads them evenly and if they are not thick enough to shade the grass below. Mulching mowers are recommended, but research suggests that mulching mowers increase clipping breakdown only slightly faster than conventional side-discharge mowers when used on cool-season turfgrasses. Catching clippings is labor and time intensive and should only be done if the clippings are used for mulch or compost.
Yard waste materials such as grass clippings, leaves, and yard trimmings make up approximately 10% (by volume) of the municipal waste stream, according to Indiana’s Department of Environmental Management. Yard waste can account for 50% or more of residential solid waste during the active growing season. Although this waste is biodegradable, landfills do not get the oxygen and water needed for breakdown. Landfills are constructed to prevent movement of air and moisture in order to protect the surrounding environment. These materials can be better put to use enhancing our gardens and landscapes.
***
Leaving grass clippings on the lawn rather than bagging for disposal is an excellent way to dramatically reduce yard waste. The amount of grass clippings generated from a given lawn varies, depending on the grass species, weather, fertilization program, and yard size. One estimate indicates that 5,000 square feet of lawn generates about 1 ton of clippings per year! Grass clippings left on the lawn are not harmful to the turf if it is mowed at the proper height and frequency. In fact, the clippings will return some nutrients back to the soil, reducing fertilizer requirements. Contrary to popular belief, grass clippings do not contribute to thatch buildup because they break down quite rapidly. Thatch is composed of dead, decomposing roots, and underground stems.
So, the RIGHT QUESTION to ask is, “Do I have an EXCESSIVE THATCH problem?” and the answer is often No, but proper assessment is the only way to tell for sure.
You can LEARN MORE, including how to DETHATCH if you need to, by clicking on the links blow
By Michelle Sadowski, Customer Service Specialist, Red Hen Turf Farm
In Part 1 of this story, I shared my experiences as I planned for, prepared for, and installed my new Tall Fescue sod, and then worked to keep it watered enough for the very hot and dry July we had in 2018.
If you missed Part 1, which we shared this past May 2019, HERE’S THE LINK. Now, in late August 2019, as things are slowing down a bit this week, I wanted to take advantage of a little extra time and share Part 2.
It was getting closer and closer to my big party last year in August 2018, when I decided it was a good time to boost with another round of starter fertilizer to really bring out the best my Tall Fescue sod had to offer my guests.
So on a nice cool afternoon, after a few glasses of wine, I started my fertilization. Right away I knew something wasn’t right … too much fertilizer was coming out of my spreader! I accidentally dumped the starter fertilizer all over the place – and before I could catch it it was too late.
My first instinct was to get the shop vac. But instead I tried watering it down. I should have chosen the shop vac because watering only made it worse.
I sat back and did the only thing I could do at the moment. I had another glass of wine. How could I have dumped all that fertilizer out? What was going to happen? Actually, since I work at Red Hen, I knew what was going to happen.
And it happened in a matter of days, just like that. I burned my lawn only a couple weeks before the big party.
Fertilizing and wine do not mix! Be careful to check your spreader for the right setting, too!
The party came and went and no one even really cared about the chemical burn on my newly installed lawn. It was already starting to repair itself. I was so impressed and amazed at its repairing ability. Still, I didn’t have high expectations after the chemical burn, and figured I’d seed the bare spots at the end of August (the ideal time to seed in the midwest is typically August 15 – September 15). But as September rolled around, my turf had nearly repaired itself completely without any assistance. There were several small spots I had to remove dead grass and re-seed but I was very happy to see the sod had repaired itself so well.
Critters.
By mid to late August, the turf looked great. In September, just as it was repairing from the chemical burn, I was inspecting my new turf like I did often when walking on it. Suddenly, the ground beneath my feet sunk through the turf into runs of tunnels left by critters. After some investigating and attempts to trap what we thought were moles, we found the culprits to be ground squirrels or chipmunks – there is a difference but we couldn’t figure out which ones were creating the damage. We had at least a dozen or more all over the yard … under the decks, in the mulch, in the garage, everywhere.
Of course, I did some internet searching that included the word “Purdue” since – because I work at Red Hen – I know that Purdue University Extension provides a huge amount of FREE, REGIONAL and SCIENCE-BASED information on all sorts of topics including lawn care and wildlife management, and Googling the terms Purdue Chipmunk Squirrel led me to THIS GUIDE and THIS GUIDE to find out how to get rid of these rascals.
After doing some reading, the very first thing we did was take away their food source. Eventually with some other trapping methods, we were able to eliminate most of the critters. We also LIGHTLY rolled the turf daily until we felt the problem was eliminated.
By the end of September 2018, the Tall Fescue Sod was improving, but the damages were evident. I was hoping for another round of amazing self-repair.
Our turf at the end of September repairing itself after underground critters wreaked havoc.
By the end of October 2018, my new sod had filled in again! I couldn’t believe it. It was so green. Sure, there were a few bare spots, but after everything this turf had gone through, it bounced right back.
Because we have critters, oaks and other problematic trees in this particular part of the yard, we’re always going to have some issues and cleanup to do. But in the end, we’ve got a gorgeous backyard we can enjoy.
And as long as I continued to follow Jeremy’s advice, “Mow right, water right and fertilize right,” I think I’ve got this.
This was a great learning experience for me, and with the help from my co-workers I will continue to learn more and more.
It also makes it easier to tell our customers, I’ve been there, done that – and here’s what I did to correct it.
Sometimes you just have to wait to see what happens.
Grass is funny like that.
It takes time to grow.
October 30 – our tall fescue turf is looks amazing!
Hopefully you have learned a little bit from my experiences and maybe you can relate to (or laugh at) some of my failures.
Either way, don’t let it get to you. It’s just grass.
When is a good time to apply a pre-emergent crabgrass preventer?
So we never have an “exact” date on when to apply the crabgrass pre-emergent since every season is different. We monitor the weather and soil temperatures. Crabgrass germinates when the soil temperatures are consistently 60° F degrees for 3-5 days at a 1/4″ level. To be effective, crabgrass pre-emergent must be applied at least 2 weeks prior to germination. Here’s a great (real time) link we use for crabgrass germination and optimum times to apply pre-emergent from Michigan State University. GDD Tracker.
As you may know, the best crabgrass prevention is a dense, healthy turf, but because crabgrass has a massive reproductive & survival capability, it is common to have some in your lawn. Some of you may have seen more crabgrass come up several weeks after your first application last year. Here’s a tip: To prevent that second flush, simply apply another crabgrass pre-emergent to your lawn 7 weeks after the first treatment.
Regular fertilization should help thicken turf along with proper watering and mowing. Water deeply and infrequently. (Light and shallow watering will encourage crabgrass growth). Do not mow more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at one time. If you mow below 2.5-3 inches (depending on the turf species) it will increase crabgrass populations.
IMPORTANT TO KNOW: If you are planning on seeding or have completed a dormant winter seeding, we do not recommend using a crabgrass pre-emergent until the new seedlings grow (at least 2 mows at 3 inches high). If you apply it too soon, it will likely end up killing any new grass seedling growth. There are a few options for crabgrass treatment if you have planted grass seed or plan on planting this spring.
For example, a very effective product is a selective herbicide called Tenacity. Tenacity herbicide can be used for pre- and post-emergence control of a wide range broadleaf weed and grass species, including CRABGRASS (well, up to the point where the crabgrass has 4 tillers or fewer).
Here is a picture to show the tillering stages of crabgrass. SOURCE: Kansas State University
Tenacity’s active ingredient, mesotrione, which is based on a naturally occurring compound produced by the bottlebrush plant that inhibits photosynthesis in susceptible plant species. The mesotrione is absorbed by weeds you are targeting through the roots, shoots and leaves and distributed throughout the plant by “translocation“. Because the targeted weeds are blocked from using photosynthesis, it does turn the targeted weeds white, and it may also cause temporary whitening of your turfgrass (for a few weeks anyhow).
Tenacity does NOT contain any fertilizer, so if this is the herbicide you choose, you’ll likely want to also do a non-herbicide / straight fertilizer application (like our 25-0-5 fertilizer) in May. When properly applied, Tenacity will destroy the weed but not harm your grass. And it’s safe to use on established or newly seeded turf.
8/29/20 UPDATE: You might also give a herbicide Red Hen carries call Q4 a shot (as long as the crabgrass is at the earlier smaller stage of no more than 3-4 tillers), and can read more about that option HERE.
Just give us a call and we can go over the products to use. Use caution when using post emergent herbicides and ALWAYS read the label. 574-232-6811 is the number to call.
Pick your battles. You shouldn’t plant grass seed AND apply crabgrass pre-emergent at the same time. If crabgrass was a problem for you last year and you want to treat it, apply the crabgrass pre-emergent and save your seeding for fall. That is the best time to seed anyway. (Typically around August 15-September 15 … again, every year is a bit different … Purdue explains more about seeding in their free publication – CLICK HERE).
Know when to give up. Crabgrass can be a pain if it is not taken care of early enough. If you wait until summer and you realize your crabgrass is out of control, you may as well let it go until it dies off with the first frost. There are post emergent herbicides that you can use but they are more difficult to use than the pre-emergent products, they cannot be used in the heat of the summer, are expensive, and are only effective on smaller crabgrass plants – which you probably don’t see anyway.
If you are looking for crabgrass pre-emergent + fertilizer (13-0-5), come see us! We have quality fertilizer in stock at great prices AND you get free expert advice!
Don’t forget to visit us on Facebook to see all of our updates including office hours and our first harvest of the season!
We have a ton of crabgrass topics! Check out our previous blog posts that touch on the topic of CRABGRASS by CLICKING HERE.
(This post was originally written by David Millar, Red Hen Turf Farm)
Unless a person has a lot of experience growing things in all types of soils, they probably could use some advice on preparing a site to grow grass on. There are some right things to do, wrong things and things that depend on your budget and the quality level you want your lawn to look like. Some things will produce a good return for your investment and some may be the right thing to do but not produce a great return for your investment. That’s why one recommendation does not fit for every lawn.
A person with an average budget and average expectations will do things differently than a person with a big budget who wants a “perfect lawn.” Proper and improper soil preparation before a lawn is installed will have a huge impact on how a lawn looks and the amount of money it takes to maintain it for many years to come. Proper lawn preparation before the turf is installed costs almost nothing compared to what it costs to correct something done wrong after the turf is installed. A lawn is one of the few things about a home that can last for the life of a home. Removing the turf and establishing new turf on a lawn can be one of the most expensive remodeling projects a person can undertake. My best advice is to select the kind of turf grass you want, and prepare the soil properly to achieve the lawn you desire. Keep an open mind as you read these recommendations, because many people spend a lot of money doing things that are wrong or not worth it.
What is soil? Soil is composed of particles of sand, silt, clay, rocks, organic matter, microorganisms and pore spaces. (sometimes moles, too!) Different soils have different amounts of these items.
Silt, clay and organic matter are responsible for the soil holding water and nutrients like Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. Pore spaces are where the roots grow, the path water takes into the soil when it rains, and most importantly, the pathway of oxygen for the grass plant roots. Sand is mostly a structural part of the soil and holds very little water or nutrients compared to the other components. A soil with just a medium amount of clay will dry slowly and be sticky when wet. Clay soils have more water and nutrient holding capacity than sandy soils. Microorganisms perform the very important function of breaking down and recycling organic compounds like old grass plants and air pollutants that fall to the ground. Rocks and moles are just a nuisance.
What is the difference between topsoil and subsoil? At undisturbed locations, topsoil is the soil on top of the ground. It usually contains more nutrients, organic matter and microorganisms than subsoil and will better support plant growth than subsoil. Subsoil is below the topsoil and has fewer nutrients, organic matter and microorganisms, which can make growing plants from seed quite challenging. The purpose of adding topsoil is to increase the water and nutrient holding capacity of an existing soil, but you must be careful when you add topsoil or you can do more harm than good.
Why are pore spaces important? Pore spaces are cavities in the soil that allow water to pass through when it rains and are a channel for oxygen to reach the roots. An ideal soil is 50% pore spaces! Construction vehicle traffic, bulldozing a final grade, and dogs running in the same path all compact a soil, which reduces the size and number of pore spaces. Compaction increases when traffic or tillage is performed and when the soil is wet rather than dry. An impatient homeowner demanding that a landscaper rake and install a lawn when the soil is too wet causes tremendous compaction, which greatly affects the lawn for years to come.
What does establishment mean when talking about lawns? Establishment is the period of time from when a lawn is started to the point when it will be maintained as a mature lawn. For a seeded or hydroseeded lawn, this period is about 24 months. For sodded lawns, it is about 2 months. Why the difference in time? You have to start from scratch with seed, but you transplant mature plants with sod. Don’t be fooled. It takes a lot of time, work and know-how to grow turf from seed. And, the quality of the soil the turf is growing on, along with the ability of the person growing the turf determines when the turf will be established.
What to do to a lawn and what to add to a lawn, therefore, depend on what kind of soil is present and what your expectations for your lawn are. Keeping these points in mind will help you decide what is best for you, as you read through this list.
As a general rule, the best dollar you can spend on a lawn is to have the soil loosened up and tilled to a depth of 4 inches. This process breaks up compaction and eliminates pockets of different soils. This mixing of the soil helps make it more uniform. You will have fewer areas of the lawn that are either dryer or wetter than the rest of the lawn.
This rutted up lawn is typical of most new homes. The soil needs to be tilled at least 4 inches deep to eliminate soil compaction.
An equally important benefit of tilling a soil is to eliminate the presence of different soil layers. Examples of layering would be when subsoil from a basement is spread out over what will be a lawn, or soil is brought in to fill low spots. Different layers of soil interfere with water movement and root penetration. The layer slows down water movement, keeping soil pores filled with water, preventing the roots from receiving oxygen. Grass plant roots do not like to leave one layer and grow into the layer below, thus causing the grass plants to become shallow rooted, which is not desirable. Some people like to mix compost into the soil and if you do, only add about an inch because compost “shrinks” over time and if you add too much, you will find your lawn will become bumpy after the compost shrinks.
These two pictures show how normal water movement slows when it reaches a different layer. The water would rather go sideways than down.
Do you see why the common practice of adding an inch or so of topsoil to a lawn can do more harm than good? These two pictures show how normal water movement slows when it reaches a different layer. The water would rather go sideways than down.
The only exception to number 1 is if you are on loose beach sand. A loose sandy soil is one where a person can take a shovel and easily dig a deep hole. It does little good to loosen up a soil that is already loose. Not all sand is loose sand and, in fact, some sands can be very compacted, which greatly benefit from being broken up.
High amounts of clay present mean that soil already has good water and nutrient-holding capacity. So adding topsoil does not provide a long term benefit.
If a person has a soil that does not have a lot of clay, and they have high expectations for their lawn, adding two inches of topsoil and mixing it into the soil will provide good benefits. If the topsoil will not be mixed into the existing soil, then don’t apply it, because it would be making a layer. If more than 2 inches of topsoil is added, it becomes difficult to mix it in. If a site were to receive 12 inches of soil, ideally, the soil would be mixed every two to three inches. Adding and mixing soil like this is usually only done on important athletic fields.
You can now see why it is difficult to establish a lawn from seed on sandy soils that are mostly subsoils. This soil has poor water and nutrient holding ability. Even turf professionals have a hard time growing grass on sand. Hotter weather makes this task even harder. Some landscapers spread a thin layer of topsoil and leave it on top to improve the chances of seedling survival. If the topsoil is very thick in some places, harmful layers can form. This thin layer offers no long-term benefits and increases the cost of seeding to about the cost of sod. Sod is easy to establish on sandy soils because it is made up of mature plants with growing momentum.
Sandy soils are not automatically bad. You just have to manage them differently once the turf has been established. Because they lack water and nutrient holding capacity, the interval between watering and fertilizing will be shorter than if topsoil were added. Instead of fertilizing every 6 weeks, a lawn without topsoil might
need to be fertilized in 4 weeks.
This is a seeded lawn on a sandy soil that failed. The owners gave up trying to grow the lawn from seed and had it sodded. Adding topsoil to a poor soil and then seeding nearly equals the cost of sodding, and you still have to grow the lawn from seed.
In summary, the best thing you can do for a lawn is to till to loosen and mix the soil. Eliminate different layers of soil by mixing. If you want to add topsoil, do it for the right reasons. Seed and hydroseed are difficult to establish on sandy or poor quality soils especially during hot weather. Sod easily establishes on all soils.
Red Hen’s 1st 2018 Harvested Pallet of Kentucky Bluegrass Sod – WINTER IS HOLDING ON STRONG! Harvested 4/9/18
You’ve noticed that in the winter months, your lawn’s grass typically will turn brown, right? This is a normal response to winter conditions — your grass has simply gone into a dormant or resting stage. Though your grass may look dead, it is alive and is waiting for the air and soil temperatures to rise in late March to early April. Once this happens, the turf color will begin to green up and start growing again.
So what can you do besides wait for warmer days?
Well, if your grass tips are brown, go ahead and mow them down. That’s right … By doing an early spring mowing and removing the brown tips off of your grass, this naturally brings out the greener grass blades, and it may even help to stimulate growth. While you’ll still need to plan on simply giving the grass more (WARMER) TIME to green up, a good mowing certainly won’t hurt, at any rate. For an established lawn, remember to mow grass to 3 to 3.5 inches high, which makes it less prone to insect, disease, and weed problems. In general, you should mow frequently, cutting off no more than a third of the height each time. Also, by mowing frequently and only when grass is dry, this will prevent clumping, and allow for leaving the clippings on your lawn. Save yourself time and money by NOT bagging or raking up your clippings. The grass clippings will break down and return valuable nutrients to the soil — in a way, it’s Mother Nature’s Free Fertilizer … However, if you do end up with clumps of grass clippings, you will want to rake, bag, or mow again so they don’t smother / shade the grass.
What else can you do?
An early spring application of fertilizer may do wonders in speeding up the green-up of your lawn. As I write this on April 12, 2018, the ground is no longer frozen, so it’s a fine time to start off with either a Fertilizer + Crabgrass Pre-emergent (like our 13-0-5). By around May 1st depending on when we start seeing consistent 60+ degree days, you may decide to treat for broadleaf weeds with a Fertilizer + Broadleaf Post-Emergent like our 22-0-5.
TIP: Remember, if you’re planning on doing some Spring Grass Seeding, as a general rule you will want to keep any herbicides away from those areas.
Not sure what approach to take? Every year is different, and every yard is different… Give us a call and we can chat about different options.
Understandably, every spring, we get a dozen or so calls from customers who sodded their lawns last year with Red Hen’s 100% Kentucky Bluegrass Sod, because they are worried about how UNGREEN their lawns are while their neighbors’ (non-Kentucky-Bluegrass) lawns are already coming out of dormancy and greening up.
Compared to the perennial ryegrasses and fescue grasses that are typical in our area, Kentucky bluegrass sod needs MORE time, MORE warmth, MORE sunlight, and MORE nutrients to GREEN-UP in the spring. This is simply a natural result of the genetics of the Kentucky bluegrass sod.
On the other hand, the superior genetics of Red Hen’s Kentucky Bluegrass sod gives it excellent disease tolerance against problems like leaf spot and summer patch. Kentucky Bluegrass is by far (in our opinion) the most beautiful cool-season grass you can buy. Once your Kentucky Bluegrass fully greens up by mid to late May, its deep, emerald blue-green color and dense, low-growing boat shaped blades can’t be beat.
More questions? Give us a call at 574-232-6811 … Thanks from Michelle, Lisa, and Jeremy @ Red Hen Turf Farm
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PREFER TO LEARN AT YOUR OWN PACE? Purdue University Extension’s Turfgrass Program offers so much free information about homeowners’ lawn care. This is a fantastic science-based and regionally-focused resource you can feel confident about trusting. You can explore at https://turf.purdue.edu/homeowner.html … Here’s a small sampling of the MANY topics covered:
Establishing a Turf Area
Establishing Lawn Areas From Seed
Seeding a Turf Area in the Spring
Purchasing Quality Grass Seed for Your Lawn
Establishing a Lawn from Sod
Building a Backyard Putting Green
Maintaining a Home Lawn
Don’t Bag It
Irrigation Practices for Homelawns
Mowing, Thatching, Aerifying, and Rolling Turf
Fertilizing Established Lawns
Should I Hire a Professional Lawn Care Service?
Maintenance Calendar for Indiana Lawns
Maintaining Lawns on Sandy Soils
Animal Urine Damage in Turf
Weed Control
Control of Broadleaf Weeds in Homelawns
Control of Crabgrass in Homelawns
Identification and Control of Perennial Grassy Weeds
Disease Control
Turfgrass Disease Profiles: Gray Snow Mold
Turfgrass Disease Profiles: Pink Snow Mold
Turfgrass Disease Profiles: Brown Patch
Insect Control
Turf Insect Management
Japanese Beetles in the Urban Landscape
New White Grub Pests of Indiana
Protecting Pollinators from Insecticide Applications in Turfgrass
Moles
Pesticide Information
The Way to Spray
Pesticides and the Home, Lawn, and Garden
The Benefits of Pesticides: A Story Worth Telling
Here’s a quick quiz to see if what you know about grass seeding is fact-based or maybe more based on old-wives-tales or just plain old bad habits. Simply Answer YES or NO …
Here we go:
The more seed I put down, the better I will be.
The best time to apply seed is whenever you have some on hand.
The more expensive bags of seed are better.
I only need to spread the seed around by hand or with a broadcast spreader and I will have grass in a week.
You don’t need to use any fertilizer when you’re seeding.
HINT: If you have answered YES to any of these 5 questions, you might want to give us a call to find out why the answers are actually all NO. And, of course, you could always consult Purdue Extension to learn more.
P.S. Did you know that TYPICALLY in the Michiana region, August 15 – September 15 is the #1 best time to do a seeding? BUT, every year can be a little bit different and this year, with the heat and droughty conditions, we’re thinking it will be more like September 1 – October 1. (Source: Purdue Extension among others)
LEARN MORE: CLICK HERE for Other Articles that Red Hen has written about grass seeding.
Pick your battles. You shouldn’t plant grass seed AND apply crabgrass pre-emergent at the same time. If crabgrass was a problem for you last year and you want to treat it, apply the crabgrass pre-emergent and save your seeding for fall. That is the best time to seed anyway. (Typically around August 15-September 15 … again, every year is a bit different … Purdue explains more about seeding in their free publication – 
