Crabgrass Photo by Michigan State University Extension
Getting right to crabgrass … it’s looking to be bad this year! From site visits and talking to quite a few landscapers and customers, with the sporadic weather / precipitation patterns this year, I believe that non-irrigated lawns are seeing the most dramatic turf-decline this year, and on a related note, the brunt of crabgrass germination. We have definitely seen a lot of customer photos this year of grass-type weeds in general.
The best way to control crabgrass is to maintain a dense, healthy turf. That way, your grass is more likely to out-compete crabgrass (and other weeds), preventing weeds from establishing. On the other hand, crabgrass tends to have rigorous survival and reproductive capabilities.
So, for lawns, it may be unrealistic to expect a crabgrass-free lawn (BUT YOU CAN TRY!)
It may be that, in the end, you will have to accept a few crabgrass plants.
Are you dealing with crabgrass at this point in the year?
Do you want to get this weed under control?
If so, we recommend following of these 2 Options to hopefully put you in a better position by next spring:
Option 1. Let the crabgrass go for now, and wait until fall and let Mother Nature kill it off. After mid-July, crabgrass plants are usually too large to control effectively. Crabgrass begins flowering and setting seed in July and will die out with the first major frost. It will take a while for these plants to decay, but at least you won’t see any in the spring. That is, unless you have allowed the crabgrass to go to seed this year, in which case you will be dealing with those seeds germinating next spring.
Option 2. As Purdue Extension points out, “Proper fertility, mowing, and irrigation is essential for crabgrass control; consider herbicidal control only if necessary.” If you are not able to tolerate the crabgrass in your lawn, we specifically recommend using a product that we carry called Q4 (CLICK HERE to read the label). Here at Red Hen Turf Farm, we really like a product called Q4 because it covers all 3 major types of undesirable weeds all in one bottle — grassy weeds, broadleaf weeds, and sedges. If there was only one herbicide product that I could use on my lawn, it would be Q4.
8/29/20 UPDATE: You might also give Tenacity a shot (as long as the crabgrass is at the earlier smaller stage of no more than 3-4 tillers), and can read more about that option HERE.
For better crabgrass and broadleaf weed control next year, you’d really need to do some strategizing over the next few months.
For example, by adding 25-0-10 fertilizer to your lawn two times from now until winter, this should make your lawn much less weedy going into the 2020 growing season.
WHY IS THIS? The thicker and stronger your grass is grass is, the better your grass can out-compete weeds. Regular fertilizing is one of the important steps towards making that happen.
Have you ever wondered why is it that we don’t see a lot of fertilizer commercials in the fall, like we do in the spring?
My guess is that the marketing teams for the big name brands do not use turf science, but are instead driven by the purchasing habits of homeowners (for better or worse).
Our job at Red Hen Turf Farm is always to strive to save our customers time, money, and/or both. So, let’s use some turf science and feed your lawn when it needs it the most.
If you told me that you only wanted to fertilize 1 or 2 times each year, you might expect I’d recommend doing it in the spring, but actually that’s not the case.
In fact, you would get the most bang for your buck by fertilizing in September and then again in November. Are you surprised? We wrote a blog about this very topic that you might want to check out by CLICKING HERE. We have also written quite a bit about crabgrass in the past, which you can read by CLICKING HERE.
1. Mowing The best height to keep grass for our area is 2-1/2 to 3 inches high. Mow when the grass grows out ½ to ¾ inch.
BONUS: CLICK HERE for Purdue Extension’s free publication on Mowing, Thatching, Aerifying, and Rolling Turf …
EXTRA BONUS: CLICK HERE for The Lawn Institute’s guidelines on Mowing
2. Fertilizing (and Liming) The first rule of fertilizing is to read the label of the product you are using. Two more important factors to consider when fertilizing your lawn are HOW MUCH and WHEN to apply.
Experts recommend an ANNUAL TOTAL 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet throughout each growing season for most established full-sun lawns (Kentucky bluegrass; Kentucky bluegrass mixed with perennial ryegrass and/or fine fescue) in Michiana. Ideally, your annual total of nitrogen should be split into 2-5 applications, with each single application of nitrogen being about 1 pound per 1,000 sq. ft. For established shade lawns, about half as much nitrogen is suggested.
On the flipside, how often you fertilize affects not only lawn appearance, but also its maintenance level. The more often you fertilize, the more you’ll have to mow, for instance.
About applying lime … Red Hen Turf Farm does NOT recommend that you blindly follow this annual ritual unless you have done a recent soil test that indicates you need to adjust your soil pH. While lot of so-called “experts” recommend lime (especially in the fall) as a way of adjusting the pH of your soil to make it less acidic, we don’t agree with this advice. The idea behind liming your lawn is that you are trying to raise the soil pH near neutral to increase the availability of most plant nutrients. While proper soil pH is necessary to achieve a healthy, attractive lawn, most Indiana soils under turfgrass do not need liming.
THE BOTTOM LINE: At Red Hen Turf Farm, we feel that the reality is that every single lawn has its own unique needs, so we recommend that you do a soil test every 3 years. If you use our soil testing procedures, we’ll provide you with a kit that you’ll mail to a certified lab. The cost is $25 for a single sample, and $10 for each additional sample. The results are sent to us and we will translate them into layman’s terms, using this information as an important piece of the puzzle for us to create a Customized Fertilizer Program, designed just for you.
BONUS: Learn how Red Hen Turf Farm can help you get your soil tested AND help design YOUR Customized Fertilizer Program by CLICKING HERE … And, Yes, we do sell high quality Fertilizer, and people seem to love the results, especially at our competitive prices Here’s our 2019 Price List.
3. Watering Very few people who have an “automatic” sprinkler system water turf properly. Most end up over-watering! You should water when the soil is dry to a depth of 4 inches and then water long enough to wet the soil 4 inches deep. Looking at the soil is the best way to tell how moist it is. Invest in a soil probe! Avoid watering in the late afternoon or early evening.
BONUS: Check out Purdue Extension’s free publication, “Irrigation Practices for Homelawns” by CLICKING HERE
EXTRA BONUS: CLICK HERE for The Lawn Institute’s guidelines on why you may want to consider letting your grass go dormant during periods of drought or more extreme heat, such as what’s typical in late July / early August in the NW Indiana / surrounding regions.
4. Shade There is no grass that likes shade. Turf is poor in shade for two reasons:
One is lack of quality and quantity of sunlight present and
The other is reduced air movement that keeps sun or wind from drying wet leaves.
Lessen shade and increase air flow for better grass. You can have either healthy grass or shade, not both…
BONUS: Learn more about trying to grow Grass in Shade via our website by CLICKING HERE
5. Grubs Most people are caught up in the hype of killing every grub. The truth is that most grubs do VERY LITTLE HARM, and it’s completely normal to have SOME grubs in your lawn … in fact, all lawns have grubs! It takes 5 or more per square foot to cause problems. Protect the environment and save some $$ by eliminating or reduce the size of preventative applications. If you are sure you have “grub problem,” there are a number of pesticides with varying efficacy depending on when you apply them. For example, we currently carry a combination fertilizer / grub control product – 15-0-3 PLUS IMI (“PLUS IMI” means that the 15-0-3 fertilizer has an added chemical called “Imidacloprid,” a widely used and powerful insecticide that can also affect non-targeted beneficial insects.) We carry the 15-0-3 as well as a granular insecticide without a fertilizer “built in” called Dylox 6.2.
BONUS: CLICK HERE to read our previous blog post on the topic of Grubs … especially if you think you might have a true “grub problem”, including the times of the year that are most effective for treating the affected area.
Click on the Image to Read Purdue Extension’s “New White Grub Pests of Indiana”
7. Thatch Thatch is the dark cocoa brown material that is below the green and above the soil. It is created by the death of old plant parts that are below the mowing height. Clippings do not produce thatch!
How much thatch is ok? Up to ½ inch of thatch is ideal and greater amounts are bad. Increasing levels of thatch are caused by over applications of fertilizer and water.Multiple passes (8 or more) with a core aerifier in September for a 2 or more years along with management changes can reduce thatch.
8. Dog spots Pick up the feces and for urine, dump some water on the spot if you observe the act. Re-seed or sod as there is no resistant grass for this area. Despite what you may have heard, we, along with Dr. Steve Thompson, DVM, Director of Purdue University Veterinary Teaching Hospital Wellness Clinic, do not recommend changing your dog’s diet without consulting your own vet first. It is either dogs or turf!
BONUS: Read Dr. Thompson’s article, “Dog-On-It Lawn Problems!” by CLICKING HERE
9. Weed control The best way to prevent weeds is to have thick turf that is mowed high and not over-watered. Grass will out-compete most weeds. By the way … moss is not an invading weed. Moss likes shade and tends to occur where turf is then (and thin turf usually ALSO accompanies shade conditions). You can’t fight Mother Nature, so the reality is that you will usually need to just live with the moss, or even give up on grass and install ornamental beds with shade loving plants. Another option is to cut down the trees to allow the grass to thrive, and you can read our website link on “Grass in Shade” to learn more.
10. Crabgrass The best crabgrass preventer is to mow high and manage the turf so it is thick. TV adds scare people into applying outrageous amounts of herbicides that may not not needed! If you continually have a crabgrass problem, make a first application of a preventative herbicide in mid-April/early May, and a second application in late June. Red Hen carries Award-brand Fertilizer + Crabgrass Preventer
11. Disease Lawns that are mowed, watered, and fertilized properly have the fewest diseases. Disease outbreaks are the result of a combination of factors occurring at the same time. These factors include the presence of the pathogen, the status and vulnerability of the turf, and certain prevailing environmental conditions. A prolonged period of hot, humid weather can cause occasional non-fatal outbreaks. The genetics of your grass play an important role in disease control. For example, newer varieties of Kentucky bluegrass (such as the ones that Red Hen Turf Farm uses in our 100% Kentucky bluegrass sod) have greater overall resistance compared to fescues, ryegrasses and old bluegrass varieties.
To effectively control a lawn disease, first you need to accurately diagnose the problem – BUT lawn diseases are hard to identify because the pathogens are typically microscopic. Diagnosing lawn diseases is both an ART and a SCIENCE that requires a systematic approach. What we are able to observe is usually the RESULT of an infection, and not the pathogens themselves. In other words, if you are seeing patches of discoloration in your lawn, you could be seeing the RESULT of a lawn disease caused by a microscopic pathogen. Another challenge to diagnosing the problem is TIME – if you can recognize the initial stages of the outbreak, this will greatly increase the likelihood that you can treat it and your lawn will recover.
If you decide to start applying chemicals to your lawn without first confirming what the disease is, this can be expensive decision and can actually cause more problems. If you think you are seeing signs of disease in your lawn, we would recommend limiting yourself to scientific research-based resources. Specifically, for this part of mid-west Indiana, we endorse the following:
12. Finding Reliable Answers As we have already touched on, we feel that Googling random website or following word-of-mouth advice are not reliable ways of getting lawn care information. Everyday, we talk to customers that have been following certain lawn practices their entire lives … and so often it turns out they were mis-informed.
There are so many “urban myths” out there, especially when it comes to the 11 topics discussed above. If you’re ready to make sure that the information you know is based on science and research, you’d be best off limiting your resources to:
Purdue Extension / Department of Agronomy (up-to-date, research-based information, specific to our geographical location) – Online at www.agry.purdue.edu/turf
The Lawn Institute – While this site is not regionally-based, in 1955, The Lawn Institute was created as a not-for-profit corporation to assist and encourage through research and education the improvement of lawns and sports turf. Since then, the Institute has been one of the most respected authorities in the world among turf professionals and scientists for monitoring, reporting, and interpreting the latest advances in turfgrass research, landscape horticulture, and agronomic science. – Online at www.thelawninstitute.org
Red Hen Turf Farm’s website (our info is derived from Purdue / MSU Extension and other reliable sources, including decades of experience) – Online at www.redhenturf.com
Red Hen Turf Farm’s Customer Service Crew, especially Turf Operations Manager, Jeremy Cooper … our contact info is below!
GET UPDATES when we publish new blog articles and share other helpful, timely tips SENT DIRECTLY TO YOUR EMAIL INBOX – It’s Easy to Subscribe to Red Hen’s E-Newsletter by CLICKING HERE
Red Hen Turf Farm – The Best Turf on Earth! We grow & sell KENTUCKY BLUEGRASS SOD HARVESTED FARM-FRESH ON DEMAND in Northern Indiana, along with GRASS SEED, FERTILIZER, WEED CONTROL PRODUCTS & MORE to homeowners, landscapers, contractors, garden centers alike
Originally posted 6/6/14, Updated 5/12/17, Updated 4/17/18
Whether or not you applied a crabgrass pre-emergent or perhaps a straight fertilizer in April, early to mid-May is usually the time for an application of either a fertilizer or a “weed and feed” (a “weed and feed” refers to a fertilizer that also has a herbicide in it).
* * * A word of warning when applying a “weed and feed” to newly seeded grass OR to an area you are planning to seed… Herbicides typically inhibit the germination of grass seed, so you should always read the label of the product to find out the recommended waiting period between applying the herbicide and planting grass seed. Typically, you will need to choose one or the other – seed in the spring or apply a product with a herbicide in it. * * *First, we always recommend Soil Testing, and then working with us to develop your fertilizer program with your soil analysis and your goals in mind. When you don’t have a soil test or a custom fertilizer program in place, for a May application, consider these 3 options…
OPTION 1 … NO NEED TO TREAT WEEDS?
A product without any type of added herbicide, like our 25-0-10 fertilizer, would be appropriate. Our 25-0-10 gives you a boost of Nitrogen to green up your lawn and make it more lush, and a higher level of Potassium than most of the products you can buy at the local garden centers, which helps promote root growth, heat and drought hardiness, wear tolerance, and disease tolerance. Wait 6-8 weeks from the time of your last application, or if this is your first application of the year, you can make your first application now.
OPTION 2 … NEED A SECOND (or first?) APPLICATION OF CRABGRASS PRE-EMERGENT?
Frankly, the window of time to get the most bang for your buck with a crabgrass pre-emergent has passed so we don’t usually recommend treating for Crabgrass at this time of the year, but we realize some people may want to give it another shot.A very small percentage of crabgrass seeds MAY still be lurking. If you did an application of crabgrass “weed and feed” 6-8 weeks ago (like 15-0-3 Crabgrass pre-emergent PLUS fertilizer), you might be considering a 2nd application. If you choose to do this, you’d want to get the crabgrass pre-emergent applied ASAP for this product to be as effective as possible (in other words, BEFORE those few remaining crabgrass seeds have reached the germination stage).
OPTION 3 … WANT TO BATTLE THOSE PESKY BROADLEAF WEEDS?
Dandelions and other broadleaf weeds are among the most troublesome turf pest problems in lawns, and it looks like this spring will be an especially bad year for them. Wait 6-8 weeks from the time of your last fertilizer or weed-and-feed application, or if this is your first application of the year, now would be a good time to get something down. That said, we offer several ways to effectively control broadleaf weeds.
One method is by applying Trimec 22-0-5 + Iron, which is a post-emergent broadleaf “weed and feed” with added Iron to give your grass a richer, deeper color. The active ingredient, Trimec, needs to be absorbed by susceptible plants in order to be effective, so for best results, mow one to two days before application and then water lightly or apply in the morning for proper adhesion to plants.
Another very effective product that Red Hen Turf Farm carries is a newish selective herbicide called Tenacity. Tenacity does NOT contain any fertilizer, so if this is the herbicide you choose, you’ll likely want to also do a fertilizer application in May (refer to Option 1 above). When properly applied, Tenacity will destroy the weed but not harm your grass. Tenacity can be used both as a pre-emergent and post-emergent to selectively control 46 weeds and grass species, including dandelions, clover, creeping bentgrass, perennial ryegrass, or fine and tall fescue. And it’s safe to use on established or newly seeded turf. Tenacity works by inhibiting photosynthesis, so it does turn the targeted weeds white, and it may also cause temporary whitening of your turfgrass (for a few weeks anyhow).
CLICK on this Screenshot to READ Purdue Extension’s FREE PUBLICATION, “Control of Broadleaf Weeds in Home Lawns”
* * *
Please call Red Hen Turf Farm, or come in to get advice on which is best for your situation… 574-232-6811 is the number.
When is a good time to apply a pre-emergent crabgrass preventer?
So we never have an “exact” date on when to apply the crabgrass pre-emergent since every season is different. We monitor the weather and soil temperatures. Crabgrass germinates when the soil temperatures are consistently 60° F degrees for 3-5 days at a 1/4″ level. To be effective, crabgrass pre-emergent must be applied at least 2 weeks prior to germination. Here’s a great (real time) link we use for crabgrass germination and optimum times to apply pre-emergent from Michigan State University. GDD Tracker.
As you may know, the best crabgrass prevention is a dense, healthy turf, but because crabgrass has a massive reproductive & survival capability, it is common to have some in your lawn. Some of you may have seen more crabgrass come up several weeks after your first application last year. Here’s a tip: To prevent that second flush, simply apply another crabgrass pre-emergent to your lawn 7 weeks after the first treatment.
Regular fertilization should help thicken turf along with proper watering and mowing. Water deeply and infrequently. (Light and shallow watering will encourage crabgrass growth). Do not mow more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at one time. If you mow below 2.5-3 inches (depending on the turf species) it will increase crabgrass populations.
IMPORTANT TO KNOW: If you are planning on seeding or have completed a dormant winter seeding, we do not recommend using a crabgrass pre-emergent until the new seedlings grow (at least 2 mows at 3 inches high). If you apply it too soon, it will likely end up killing any new grass seedling growth. There are a few options for crabgrass treatment if you have planted grass seed or plan on planting this spring.
For example, a very effective product is a selective herbicide called Tenacity. Tenacity herbicide can be used for pre- and post-emergence control of a wide range broadleaf weed and grass species, including CRABGRASS (well, up to the point where the crabgrass has 4 tillers or fewer).
Here is a picture to show the tillering stages of crabgrass. SOURCE: Kansas State University
Tenacity’s active ingredient, mesotrione, which is based on a naturally occurring compound produced by the bottlebrush plant that inhibits photosynthesis in susceptible plant species. The mesotrione is absorbed by weeds you are targeting through the roots, shoots and leaves and distributed throughout the plant by “translocation“. Because the targeted weeds are blocked from using photosynthesis, it does turn the targeted weeds white, and it may also cause temporary whitening of your turfgrass (for a few weeks anyhow).
Tenacity does NOT contain any fertilizer, so if this is the herbicide you choose, you’ll likely want to also do a non-herbicide / straight fertilizer application (like our 25-0-5 fertilizer) in May. When properly applied, Tenacity will destroy the weed but not harm your grass. And it’s safe to use on established or newly seeded turf.
8/29/20 UPDATE: You might also give a herbicide Red Hen carries call Q4 a shot (as long as the crabgrass is at the earlier smaller stage of no more than 3-4 tillers), and can read more about that option HERE.
Just give us a call and we can go over the products to use. Use caution when using post emergent herbicides and ALWAYS read the label. 574-232-6811 is the number to call.
Pick your battles. You shouldn’t plant grass seed AND apply crabgrass pre-emergent at the same time. If crabgrass was a problem for you last year and you want to treat it, apply the crabgrass pre-emergent and save your seeding for fall. That is the best time to seed anyway. (Typically around August 15-September 15 … again, every year is a bit different … Purdue explains more about seeding in their free publication – CLICK HERE).
Know when to give up. Crabgrass can be a pain if it is not taken care of early enough. If you wait until summer and you realize your crabgrass is out of control, you may as well let it go until it dies off with the first frost. There are post emergent herbicides that you can use but they are more difficult to use than the pre-emergent products, they cannot be used in the heat of the summer, are expensive, and are only effective on smaller crabgrass plants – which you probably don’t see anyway.
If you are looking for crabgrass pre-emergent + fertilizer (13-0-5), come see us! We have quality fertilizer in stock at great prices AND you get free expert advice!
Don’t forget to visit us on Facebook to see all of our updates including office hours and our first harvest of the season!
We have a ton of crabgrass topics! Check out our previous blog posts that touch on the topic of CRABGRASS by CLICKING HERE.
It is once again time to get your crabgrass preventer out on the lawn. That is, unless you’re planning on a spring seeding … then you would NOT want to apply any type of weed herbicide.
Our 13-0-5 with crabgrass preventer (the Grey Bag) is a great choice, especially at only $29.50 plus tax. It covers 12,500 Square Foot, at a rate of 4 pounds per 1000 Square Foot.
I was down south in Alabama last week looking for signs of crabgrass, but the house we rent every year was all weeds.
Jeremy’s vacation view in Alabama
From the websites I use to track turf-related problems across the nation we are starting to see it germinate in parts of Kentucky and Tennessee. It’s a matter of 1-2 weeks and we’ll start seeing this common weed migrating to the north.
Getting your preventer down now will help stop crabgrass from germinating and kill other weeds also. With last year’s 5 weeks of little to no rain I think it might be a good idea to apply a crabgrass preventer twice this year to stay away from the summer flush of crabgrass. HOWEVER, that said, the only way I would recommend to do 2 applications is if you have open turf and have had problems in the past.
Do remember that its need to be watered in and applied at the right rate to be effective. Please always read the label.
Want to learn more about keeping crabgrass under control? Check out our previous blog posts on this topic by CLICKING HERE.
Well we are looking to have an early spring this year. It sure has been nice sitting outside with the neighbors, getting my boat ready and even washing my truck. We even harvest our first semi of sod on Friday. I know last year I was not doing this to much later.
When the phone starts to ring and customers start coming into the Shop, it’s time to look at timing of CRABGRASS.
If you have been in the Michiana area for a while you know we have had an early season like this not too long ago. But it is usually hard to remember how your yard looked by the end of the year.
The last early spring we had some home lawns had breakthrough of crabgrass. We call it the summer flush. This could be the year to apply a CRABGRASS PRE-EMERGENCE (aka a “Weed and Feed”) two times.
But remember not every yard is the same and neither is the weather from year to year.
Looking at the long-term Growing Degree Days (GDD), I would say that the next 3 weeks would be a great time to apply Crabgrass pre-emergence.
Our 50 pound bag of 13-0-5 w/.28% Barricade herbicide (the GREY BAG, front row, farthest to the left) is a GREAT CRABGRASS PRE-EMERGENT that INCLUDES FERTILIZER. It’s only $29.50 and would cover 12,500 square feet when applying at 4 pounds per 1000 square feet. CLICK ON THE PHOTO to be taken to a LINK with the technical specs on our 13-0-5 for crabgrass management.
After your first application is done, perhaps you’ll find that your yard is just not thick enough. A second crabgrass pre-emergent application 60 days later can be beneficial. I do believe the last time I recommended this to all was in March 2013.
Some key points to remember going into this season:
It rained a lot last year in the spring. This year could be different.
Pre-emergent herbicides must be watered in to be effective.
Always follow the label on fertilizer, and don’t forget that the labels can change from time to time.
Ensure even distribution of product especially where you are most likely to see crabgrass.
Thin turf is often a problem in compacted area such as just off a driveway or sidewalk, in non-irrigated areas, and with low-cut turf
Crabgrass can start to germinate when the average daily soil reaches 57° to 64° F. A Crabgrass Pre-Emergent is most effective when you apply it BEFORE the weed starts to germinate. We are at 49° F as of 3-9-2016 at the farm.
Come on out and visit us soon! Our current hours are Monday – Friday, 8AM to 4PM Eastern time.
And – as always – we’re here for questions – 574-232-6811.
Lastly, as a BONUS, you can read some articles from our archives that address CRABGRASS by CLICKING HERE.
Crabgrass growing next to a sidewalk >>> Image Source: Purdue Turf Tips, Weed Management Next to Sidewalks and Driveways (July 14, 2014) – CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO READ MORE
As most of you are WELL aware of, crabgrass is a common summer annual weed in our Michiana lawns. In July, crabgrass plants were busy flowering and spreading their seeds, but each year it will die out naturally after the first frost.
But what can you do about crabgrass in the months between July and October/November when we usually see our first frost?
Unfortunately, the best time to control late summer / early fall crabgrass is to go back in time and deal with it in THE SPRING with a PRE-EMERGENT herbicide (like our 13-0-5 Fertilizer + Crabgrass preventer), along with mowing right, watering right, and fertilizing right.
Crabgrass is tough to kill and reproduces very effectively. To expect a 100% crabgrass-free lawn is probably not very realistic – Mother Nature has the upper hand. The most effective approach to controlling this weed is to nurture and maintain a dense, healthy lawn to out-compete crabgrass (and other weeds by default), and prevent it from establishing in the first place.
We’ve been getting quite a few calls and visits from customers whose lawns are mostly free of this weed EXCEPT along areas like the edges along sidewalks, driveways, and roads. These sections have two major issues going against them:
(1) SALT from winter that is still hanging around in the soil; and
(2) COMPACTION from things like foot traffic, auto/mower tires, and piled snow.
Crabgrass – among other weeds – is very tolerant of growing where there is salt and compaction. Turf grasses are sensitive to both salt and compaction, and tend to NOT grow well in these spots. Kentucky bluegrass is especially sensitive to salt damage, while perennial ryegrass, fine fescues, and tall fescue are more tolerant, but not totally resistant.
Another common trouble-spot is along the seams where sod was laid but the edges of the rolls were probably not placed close enough together. The turf growing in these seams is thin and weak, allowing weeds to out-compete your grass.
Again, the crabgrass you see now in late-August WILL die off with our first frost. But what about using a POST-emergent herbicide? There are effective products to use, but TIMING is everything and ALWAYS READ THE LABEL. Common to these post-emergent crabgrass herbicides is that you need to apply them when the plant is YOUNG … and, well, once we get past mid-July the crabgrass plants are usually
too large to control effectively. Another challenge to treating crabgrass that has already shown up is that these post-emergents work best at temperatures below 85ºF on clear days with low humidity. That’s pretty hard to do in the dog-days of summer!
So what do I do this time of year in my own yard? I pulled a few out of my front yard the other day. I have more in the backyard and I plan on leaving them. I am not going to try to attempt to eradicate them with herbicides at this time. They are very big and tougher to kill. I am going to tolerate them because they will die with the first frost. Every year I tell many customers that you can apply Crabgrass preventer 2 times in a year. If crabgrass was bad this year, I would look to doing better prevention next year.
On the other hand, if you’re up for the challenge, we do carry some post-emergent herbicides that we’d be happy to educate you about.
For more in-depth, science-based information, check out Purdue Extension’s publication, “Control of Crabgrass in Home Lawns” by CLICKING HERE.
As always, give our team a call if you have any questions – 574-232-6811.
So what is up with this weather? This morning’s lake effect snow showers at the end of April was a surprise. I am just glad our employees were ready and more importantly dressed for it.
So what did this weather do to us in the Michiana area in terms of lawn care?
Well we still have time to get our Fertilizer PLUS Crabgrass preventer down before it starts to germinate. I would have this done within the next 2 weeks to get the most benefit out of applying it.
Can you apply a Crabgrass preventer later than within the next 2 weeks and still have at least some effect? Well, yes you can BUT when you buy something why not get the most out of it?
With some spring broadleaf weeds starting to grow, it’s also time to get these under control. When our temperatures are going to be as low as weather broadcasters are stating, we have to understand what will work and won’t work. Some products we carry are great for cool temperatures but not for high humidity and temperatures over 85 degrees. (Also, to catch up our past posts on fertilizer and weed control, CLICK HERE.)
So my real TAKE-HOME POINT of writing this post today is that reading and understanding a product label is very important. A few of you have heard me say that just because a product is on a store’s shelf does not mean it needs to be on your yard. Well now you have purchased something from Red Hen’s shelf, so the question becomes, “Is it a good time to put it down?”
Think back to the day that you came in and bought a product. Was the weather different? Was it sunny, raining or cold?
One of my goals everyday is to save my friends, coworkers, clients and family time, money and hopefully both. Read the label and (HERE’s THE KEY) if you do not understand part of the label give us call and hopefully I will save you both.
Take care of yourself and your yard,
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I know in my yard I have a few spots where the turf has thinned and I know these are areas where crabgrass will take over, so I am going to apply 13-0-5 with Barricade (crabgrass preventer) on my yard on April 18, 2015.
But remember your yard can be different than mine. Just a few variables that you should look for include:
Were your sidewalks edged last year exposing the soil?
Is your soil compacted next to the sidewalks, drives and decks?
Is your turf thin in certain areas?
Are you able to regularly irrigate to keep your lawn growing?
If you have any of these problems, I would apply a crabgrass preventer. It is a lot easier to prevent crabgrass before it happens.
If you have any lingering questions feel free to call or email us.