(Article originally written by Jeremy, Red Hen Turf Farm, in Spring 2019 – revised for Spring 2023)
Almost daily, I have business owners confide in me with a wide range of business problems. I really enjoy helping to hash things out and when they act on the solutions that we come up with and things goes well, I get a great feeling of accomplishment. Developing a pricing structures must be one of the toughest things to do. Every business is so unique in the overall costs, market competition, employees / labor issues and equipment.
Let’s shift our perspective on this issue to a customer’s perspective using an example from a few years ago. My family’s fireplace is a gas-feed one that would only work sometimes. So, we make a few calls to get it serviced. The first fireplace service place would not come out because they did not install it. They were within a 10 minute drive to our house and their website said they do service on our type of fireplace, which is why we called them first. Next, we called another service provider that was more than twice as far away than the first one. They scheduled an appointment 4 weeks out, and on the day we were set for service, they arrived on time, replaced a part and cleaned the fireplace — in and out in under an hour.
So, what was the cost? I had an amount in my head that it should cost, but there were a few things that came into discussion. Was the quote high at $125.00? Or was that amount way low … so low that I contacted the company again.
By the way, the amount I had in mind was $300.00. I work with Red Hen’s numbers and many other business models, so based on my own experience, I was considering the company’s drive time, office staff overhead, the time of year, insurance costs, training costs, etc. If someone does not deal with any of these sorts of things, they would not consider them in what they feel we should have paid for the service – and would likely find that quote of $125.00 to be high.
My point of all this is that many of you are afraid to raise prices based on your own, ultimately limited, perspective and beliefs.
It’s your business, but please consider all of the less obvious business costs and expenses you might be overlooking, and charge what you need to.
I’d be happy to talk with you about your company’s pricing, especially if you take a bit of time to give things some though beforehand. To inspire you to make revisiting your pricing in the New Season a priority, here are a few resources to take a look at:
When it comes to lawn care and landscaping estimating software tools, every year there are more and more options, with a wide range of pricing structures, features, reliability, accuracy, and practical usability.
A new one on the market — SatQuote — was launched by Sod Solutions, the same developers who created the web-based sod sales order logistics system that Red Hen has been using for years.
In a nutshell, SatQuote is a suite of tools that helps with everything from lead generation and management to creating quotes and impressive proposals.
The system offers property owner information, boundary data, drawing and map manipulation features, high-resolution imagery and AI measuring assistance. It’s web-based with mobile apps that can be used in the field.
Founder and Chief Technology Officer Drew Wagner offers this descriptions:
“Outdoor service providers will be able to save money and deliver bids faster by utilizing SatQuote’s full suite of tools on laptops, tablets and mobile devices. Understanding the details, layout and measurements of potential work before wasting time and money driving to the site will save business owners and salespeople significant time and allow them to focus on the highest profit jobs. Our SatMeausure Technology AI and measurement tools paired with our mobile app for on-site geotagged photos and notes are a game changer and will make businesses run more efficiently.”
There’s a 14 Day Free Trial, so perhaps before the season takes off, you might give it a whirl? SatQuote annual plans range from $150-$600/year with 3 different feature levels to choose from.
Red Hen Turf Farm is now officially an Affiliate for SatQuote so if you’re curious to do a demo with the Sod Solutions team, be sure to use our LINK to get started.
While Red Hen will deliver 500 Sq. Ft. (1 standard pallet) or more of sod, if you have the means of picking sod up, it’s always worth getting quotes for both scenarios.
When you pick sod up at Red Hen Turf Farm during our loading hours, we will always prefer to load your sod on the pallet, by using one of our forklifts.
The most common problems that we encounter when loading various vehicles are:
Customers do not bring and are not prepared to use the appropriate tie downs.
No good access to load trailer with Red Hen’s Forklifts because the trailer has a drop down gate that can not be removed and/or ramps that the forklifts cannot safely drive on.
Tires have not been checked for wear or air pressure.
Trailer is not rated for the weight of even 1 pallet of sod.
If you ultimately decide to pick up sod, the Law puts the responsibility of providing proper transportation and equipment for SAFE and LEGAL hauling squarely on your shoulders. This includes proper cargo tie-down equipment, properly equipped vehicles and the knowledge and skills to execute the practices safely.
Being mindful of this could literally save someone’s life!
If you want to become REALLY EDUCATED about hauling cargo and equipment, we suggest you look at Purdue University’s FREE 85-Page GUIDE, “Securing the Load: A Guide to Safe and Legal Transportation of Cargo and Equipment” at THIS LINK.
The very least you should know when picking up sod includes:
You need a vehicle that can haul the load safely. A full pallet of sod (500 sq. ft.) can weigh 2000-3000 pounds depending on recent rains or irrigation. IN CASE YOU ARE INTERESTED IN RENTING A TRUCK and/or TRAILER TO PICK YOUR SOD UP, we’ve included a few helpful links at the end of this article.
Make sure you have a vehicle that can pull the loaded trailer and also make sure the vehicle is designed to pull the loaded weights.
If you bring a trailer, make sure it is designed to hold the weight you want to haul, and make sure the tires can handle the load.
CHECK THE TIRE AIR PRESSURE of YOUR VEHICLE and THE TRAILER.
With a Trailer, Safety chains should be properly rigged to tow vehicle, not to hitch or ball
With a Trailer, the Coupler should be secured, tight, and locked. Refer to the “Coupling To Tow Vehicle” section of your manual.
Lights: Test Tail, Stop, and Turn Lights
Bring something to tie down the sod on the pallets. Ratchet tie down straps work best.
With a Trailer, Follow the safety checks after 10, 25, and 50 miles as described below.
After 10 Miles
After 25 Miles
After 50 Miles
Retighten lug nuts
Retighten lug nuts
Check that Coupler is Secured
Check tire pressure
Check tire pressure
Check that safety chains are fastened and not dragging
Check that Coupler is Secured
Check that Coupler is Secured
Check that Sod is Secured
We truly want you to get home with all of your sod safely, and the people following you will appreciate your diligence.
Also, it is required by law.
Last but not least, if you are curious about renting a truck and/or trailer, here are some handy links to check for availability in your local area:
For the South Bend Area, MICHIANA RENTAL is another source to rent a heavy-load capacity Dump Trailer, starting at $150 for four hours / $200 Daily / $200 for the Weekend – https://mtrental.com/tools/trailers/
Did you know that there are certain times of the year that are better to plant grass seed than others? If not, you’re not alone.
It turns out that in our part of the country, often the BEST TIME to plant Cool Season Grass Seed is in the LATE SUMMER / EARLY FALL.
Specifically, in the northern-third Indiana, August 15th through September 15th is the ideal time period to plant Cool Season Grasses. (One exception to this rule would be if you have a heavy shaded area due to trees, in which case you might want to consider a winter or spring seeding when the leaves have fallen and more sunlight can reach your soil bed.)
Air and soil temperatures are more moderate, which improves seed GERMINATION.
It typically rains more frequently, which helps reduce (but may not eliminate) extra watering … this also improves your chances for successful seed GERMINATION.
Grass seedlings face fewer pests than they do in the spring or the hottest parts of summer, again improving GERMINATION.
A FEW TIPS TO IMPROVE YOUR ODDS FOR BETTER SEEDING RESULTS
First, let’s talk about what method of seeding or over-seeding you might consider. Many people try to simply cast the seed by hand or by using a spreader and leave it at that. But is this the most efficient way?
The answer is NO for several reasons, including the fact that rain or wind will likely carry much of this seed away and it will never grow. Or much of it will become a yummy meal for wildlife. Also, without giving the seed a thin layer of soil over the top to grow in, there’s a good chance your rate of success will go way down. To achieve this, you can rent a slit seeder or a core aerator at most local garden centers. We recommend using either a slit-seeder to plant your seed, or using a core aerator first and then seeding into the cores. These methods protect the seed from being carried away, and provide the much needed soil bed for the seed to germinate.
Let’s go a little deeper…
New grass seedlings have poorly developed root systems, which means they cannot effectively absorb nutrients from the soil.
For this reason, it is important to WATER and FERTILIZE PROPERLY after seeding to encourage germination and establishment.
Fertilizer Application #1 – Do this right after planting your grass seed. We recommend using 12-12-12 (or another starter fertilizer). The rate of application will depend on the species of grass you are planting. You should also water 2-3 Times each day while the seeds are in the process of germinating. Apply enough water to keep the soil moistened. When you see the new grass plants (seedlings), you may reduce the number of times you water.
Fertilizer Application #2 – 4-6 weeks after planting (depending on the type of grass seed you’ve planted). Use some more of the starter fertilizer that you applied in the first application. Again, the rate of application will depend on what kind of grass you’ve planted. Continue to water as needed to prevent the soil from drying out. However, be careful that you do not keep the soil saturated, leaving your new grass vulnerable to pests and diseases.
Fertilizer Application #3 – Do this 4-5 Weeks after your 2nd Application (once again depending on the type of grass seed you’ve planted).Our 25-0-10 fertilizer would be perfect for this 3rd Application. Or, for the 3rd Application, you could apply a broad leaf herbicide if needed to control broadleaf weeds (such as our 22-0-5+Trimec+Iron). On the other hand, if you’re dealing with grassy weeds, they are difficult to kill with herbicides, so proper mowing is your best choice for controlling them.
PURCHASING GRASS SEED AT RED HEN TURF FARM
Here at Red Hen Turf Farm, we sell several varieties of grass seed by the pound, which is handy whether you have a very small or very large area to plant.
Contact us for prices and recommendations based on your specific needs and goals.
Some of your choices for grass seeds here at Red Hen include:
Red Hen 100% Kentucky Bluegrass Seed …
This sod-quality seed will match our most current variety of Kentucky Bluegrass sod in production.
Aa beautiful, lush, and finely textured natural grass – definitely the BEAUTY QUEEN of our 2 types of sod
A blend of four high quality, top performing seed varieties
Widely used on golf courses, athletic fields, and home lawns.
Fertilizing Needs for our Kentucky Bluegrass Sod will be 4-5 applications each calendar year
Seed can be used to patch small areas in existing sod or seeding a large area next to sod.
Takes 21 days to germinate and will be very slow to fill in.
Will require some extra attention to establish, but it exhibits the same deep green color and disease resistance that Red Hen’s sod does.
AVAILABLE IN 50 LB BAGS, OR IN BULK BY THE POUND.
Red Hen Turf-type Tall Fescue Sod Mix (90/10) Seed …
This seed blend mix matches our Current Tall Fescue Sod
Comprised of 90% Rhizomatous Tall Fescue and 10% Kentucky Bluegrass
Superior density, dark color, and fine leaf texture.
The fescues in this mix provide increased spreading ability, deep rooting, and are drought tolerant.
The fescues and Kentucky Bluegrass in this mix provides lower irrigation requirements once established.
A great choice for sites without installed sprinkler system and for sandier soil types.
Fertilizing needs for our Tall Fescue Sod Seed Mix will be closer to 1-2 applications each calendar year, focus on applying during the fall months because in the fall, the grass plant will use what it needs, but store some of the nutrients for the next season, making your dollar stretch further.
The fescue seeds in this mx take 7-10 days to germinate and the Kentucky bluegrass seeds in this mix will take 21 days to germinated and will be slower to fill in.
AVAILABLE IN 50 LB BAGS, OR IN BULK BY THE POUND.
Red Hen 100% Turf-type Tall Fescue Seed …
Comprised 100% Rhizomatous Tall Fescue
Superior density, dark color, and fine leaf texture.
The fescues in this mix provide increased spreading ability, deep rooting, and are drought tolerant.
Fertilizing needs will be closer to 1-2 applications each calendar year
A great choice for sites without installed sprinkler system and for sandier soil types.
This mix will take about 7-10 days to germinate
Greenskeeper Custom Mix Seed …
OUR MOST POPULAR SEED!
Works well in full sun and light amounts of shade.
This variety contains 3 types of grass seeds and each type will germinate at a different time.
The ryegrasses in this seed mix should germinate in 3-5 days, the fescues will germinate in 7-10 days, and the bluegrass seeds will germinate in about 21 days.
AVAILABLE IN 50 LB BAGS, OR IN BULK BY THE POUND.
Greenskeeper Premium Shade Mix Seed …
While no grass loves shade, this blend has varieties that exhibit better growth habits in partially shaded areas.
The ryegrasses in this seed mix should germinate in 3-5 days, the fescues will germinate in 7-10 days, and the bluegrass seeds will germinate in about 21 days.
For more information, visit the “Grass In Shade” section of our website. A
VAILABLE IN 50 LB BAGS, OR IN BULK BY THE POUND.
Greenskeeper Super Shady Seed …
If you have less than 2 hours of direct sunlight and have tried to other shady mixes with little luck, this may be the grass seed for you!
This mix contains includes 5% Poa Supina bluegrass seed – some of the highest tech shad grass seed on the market.
The ryegrasses in this seed mix should germinate in 3-5 days, the fescues will germinate in 7-10 days, and the bluegrass seeds will germinate in about 21 days.
AVAILABLE IN 25 LB BAGS, OR IN BULK BY THE POUND.
Greenskeeper Valu Plus Mix …
An affordable option, good for rapid establishment.
Primarily consists of ryegrasses, with some Kentucky Bluegrass and Creeping Red Fescue.
The ryegrasses in this seed mix should germinate in 3-5 days, the fescues will germinate in 7-10 days, and the bluegrass seeds will germinate in about 21 days.
AVAILABLE IN 50 LB BAGS ONLY
Greenskeeper Low-Mow National Links Mix …
Consists of low-growing fine fescues well adapted to the harsh conditions of golf course roughs and bunker faces.
Left unmown, this formula provides maintenance savings, erosion control, and adaptation under varying soil conditions.
The fescues will germinate in 7-10 days
AVAILABLE IN 50 LB BAGS ONLY
What’s more, if you don’t see what you are after, we may be able to special order the seed you need. Just let us know the seed specifications you have and we will do what we can to get it for you for a reasonable cost.
Contact Red Hen Turf Farm … Whether you’re a recent customer, a customer from years or even decades ago, or you’re simply looking for information or pricing, we’re here to help. What’s more, regardless of whether you end up purchasing anything from us, we genuinely enjoy talking with and educating people. Give us a call (574-232-6811) or drop us an email (turf@redhenturf.com).
1. Mowing The best height to keep grass for our area is 2-1/2 to 3 inches high. Mow when the grass grows out ½ to ¾ inch.
BONUS: CLICK HERE for Purdue Extension’s free publication on Mowing, Thatching, Aerifying, and Rolling Turf …
2. Fertilizing (and Liming) The first rule of fertilizing is to read the label of the product you are using. Two more important factors to consider when fertilizing your lawn are HOW MUCH and WHEN to apply.
Experts recommend an ANNUAL TOTAL 2-4 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet throughout each growing season for most established full-sun lawns (Kentucky bluegrass; Kentucky bluegrass mixed with perennial ryegrass and/or fine fescue) in Michiana. Ideally, your annual total of nitrogen should be split into 2-5 applications, with each single application of nitrogen being about 1 pound per 1,000 sq. ft. For established shade lawns, about half as much nitrogen is suggested.
On the flipside, how often you fertilize affects not only lawn appearance, but also its maintenance level. The more often you fertilize, the more you’ll have to mow, for instance.
About applying lime … Red Hen Turf Farm does NOT recommend that you blindly follow this annual ritual unless you have done a recent soil test that indicates you need to adjust your soil pH. While lot of so-called “experts” recommend lime (especially in the fall) as a way of adjusting the pH of your soil to make it less acidic, we don’t agree with this advice. The idea behind liming your lawn is that you are trying to raise the soil pH near neutral to increase the availability of most plant nutrients. While proper soil pH is necessary to achieve a healthy, attractive lawn, most Indiana soils under turfgrass do not need liming.
THE BOTTOM LINE: At Red Hen Turf Farm, we feel that the reality is that every single lawn has its own unique needs, so we recommend that you do a soil test every 3 years. If you use our soil testing procedures, we’ll provide you with a kit that you’ll mail to a certified lab. The cost is $25 for a single sample, and $10 for each additional sample. The results are sent to us and we will translate them into layman’s terms, using this information as an important piece of the puzzle for us to create a Customized Fertilizer Program, designed just for you.
BONUS: Learn how Red Hen Turf Farm can help you get your soil tested AND help design YOUR Customized Fertilizer Program by CLICKING HERE … And, Yes, we do sell high quality Fertilizer, and people seem to love the results, especially at our competitive prices
3. Watering Very few people who have an “automatic” sprinkler system water turf properly. Most end up over-watering! You should water when the soil is dry to a depth of 4 inches and then water long enough to wet the soil 4 inches deep. Looking at the soil is the best way to tell how moist it is. Invest in a soil probe! Avoid watering in the late afternoon or early evening.
BONUS: Check out Purdue Extension’s free publication, “Irrigation Practices for Homelawns” by CLICKING HERE
4. Shade There is no grass that likes shade. Turf is poor in shade for two reasons:
One is lack of quality and quantity of sunlight present and
The other is reduced air movement that keeps sun or wind from drying wet leaves.
Lessen shade and increase air flow for better grass. You can have either healthy grass or shade, not both…
BONUS: Learn more about trying to grow Grass in Shade via our website by CLICKING HERE
5. Grubs Most people are caught up in the hype of killing every grub. The truth is that most grubs do VERY LITTLE HARM, and it’s completely normal to have SOME grubs in your lawn … in fact, all lawns have grubs! It takes 5 or more per square foot to cause problems. Protect the environment and save some $$ by eliminating or reduce the size of preventative applications. If you are sure you have “grub problem,” there are a number of pesticides with varying efficacy depending on when you apply them. For example, we currently carry a combination fertilizer / grub control product – 15-0-3 PLUS IMI (“PLUS IMI” means that the 15-0-3 fertilizer has an added chemical called “Imidacloprid,” a widely used and powerful insecticide that can also affect non-targeted beneficial insects.) We carry the 15-0-3 as well as a granular insecticide without a fertilizer “built in” called Dylox 6.2.
BONUS: CLICK HERE to read our previous blog post on the topic of Grubs … especially if you think you might have a true “grub problem”, including the times of the year that are most effective for treating the affected area.
Click on the Image to Read Purdue Extension’s “New White Grub Pests of Indiana”
7. Thatch Thatch is the dark cocoa brown material that is below the green and above the soil. It is created by the death of old plant parts that are below the mowing height. Clippings do not produce thatch!
How much thatch is ok? Up to ½ inch of thatch is ideal and greater amounts are bad. Increasing levels of thatch are caused by over applications of fertilizer and water.Multiple passes (8 or more) with a core aerifier in September for a 2 or more years along with management changes can reduce thatch.
8. Dog spots Pick up the feces and for urine, dump some water on the spot if you observe the act. Re-seed or sod as there is no resistant grass for this area. Despite what you may have heard, we, along with Dr. Steve Thompson, DVM, Director of Purdue University Veterinary Teaching Hospital Wellness Clinic, do not recommend changing your dog’s diet without consulting your own vet first. It is either dogs or turf!
BONUS: Read Dr. Thompson’s article, “Dog-On-It Lawn Problems!” by CLICKING HERE
9. Weed control The best way to prevent weeds is to have thick turf that is mowed high and not over-watered. Grass will out-compete most weeds. By the way … moss is not an invading weed. Moss likes shade and tends to occur where turf is then (and thin turf usually ALSO accompanies shade conditions). You can’t fight Mother Nature, so the reality is that you will usually need to just live with the moss, or even give up on grass and install ornamental beds with shade loving plants. Another option is to cut down the trees to allow the grass to thrive, and you can read our website link on “Grass in Shade” to learn more.
10. Crabgrass The best crabgrass preventer is to mow high and manage the turf so it is thick. TV adds scare people into applying outrageous amounts of herbicides that may not not needed! If you continually have a crabgrass problem, make a first application of a preventative herbicide in mid-April/early May, and a second application in late June. Red Hen carries Award-brand Fertilizer + Crabgrass Preventer
11. Disease Lawns that are mowed, watered, and fertilized properly have the fewest diseases. Disease outbreaks are the result of a combination of factors occurring at the same time. These factors include the presence of the pathogen, the status and vulnerability of the turf, and certain prevailing environmental conditions. A prolonged period of hot, humid weather can cause occasional non-fatal outbreaks. The genetics of your grass play an important role in disease control. For example, newer varieties of Kentucky bluegrass (such as the ones that Red Hen Turf Farm uses in our 100% Kentucky bluegrass sod) have greater overall resistance compared to fescues, ryegrasses and old bluegrass varieties.
To effectively control a lawn disease, first you need to accurately diagnose the problem – BUT lawn diseases are hard to identify because the pathogens are typically microscopic. Diagnosing lawn diseases is both an ART and a SCIENCE that requires a systematic approach. What we are able to observe is usually the RESULT of an infection, and not the pathogens themselves. In other words, if you are seeing patches of discoloration in your lawn, you could be seeing the RESULT of a lawn disease caused by a microscopic pathogen. Another challenge to diagnosing the problem is TIME – if you can recognize the initial stages of the outbreak, this will greatly increase the likelihood that you can treat it and your lawn will recover.
If you decide to start applying chemicals to your lawn without first confirming what the disease is, this can be expensive decision and can actually cause more problems. If you think you are seeing signs of disease in your lawn, we would recommend limiting yourself to scientific research-based resources. Specifically, for this part of mid-west Indiana, we endorse the following:
12. Finding Reliable Answers As we have already touched on, we feel that Googling random website or following word-of-mouth advice are not reliable ways of getting lawn care information. Everyday, we talk to customers that have been following certain lawn practices their entire lives … and so often it turns out they were mis-informed.
There are so many “urban myths” out there, especially when it comes to the 11 topics discussed above. If you’re ready to make sure that the information you know is based on science and research, you’d be best off limiting your resources to:
Purdue Extension / Department of Agronomy (up-to-date, research-based information, specific to our geographical location) – Online at www.agry.purdue.edu/turf
The Lawn Institute – While this site is not regionally-based, in 1955, The Lawn Institute was created as a not-for-profit corporation to assist and encourage through research and education the improvement of lawns and sports turf. Since then, the Institute has been one of the most respected authorities in the world among turf professionals and scientists for monitoring, reporting, and interpreting the latest advances in turfgrass research, landscape horticulture, and agronomic science. – Online at www.thelawninstitute.org
Red Hen Turf Farm’s website (our info is derived from Purdue / MSU Extension and other reliable sources, including decades of experience) – Online at www.redhenturf.com
Red Hen Turf Farm’s Customer Service Crew, especially Turf Operations Manager, Jeremy Cooper … our contact info is below!
CONTACT US
RED HEN TURF FARM is located at 29435 Darden Rd, New Carlisle IN – CHECK OUT OUR GOOGLE LANDING PAGE – WE’D LOVE TO GET A REVIEW FROM YOU WHILE YOU’RE THERE – HERE’s THE LINK Phone: 574-232-6811 Email: turf@redhenturf.com Web: www.redhenturf.com
Red Hen Turf Farm – The Best Turf on Earth! We grow & sell KENTUCKY BLUEGRASS SOD HARVESTED FARM-FRESH ON DEMAND in Northern Indiana, along with GRASS SEED, FERTILIZER, WEED CONTROL PRODUCTS & MORE to homeowners, landscapers, contractors, garden centers alike
Originally posted 6/6/14, Updated 5/12/17, Updated 4/17/18
