Unfortunately, because sod is immediately perishable, we cannot accept returns. On the other hand, we are committed to providing only the freshest sod available, and should you ever have questions or concerns – now or years from now – we’re here to help troubleshoot. We’re easily able to do this remotely by phone, text, and by sharing photos that show the story of what is happening around the affected area.
Red Hen does not make a special trip to return to your site to pick pallets up, so the question often arises about how to deal with our custom-made pallets after your sod delivery. Check out THIS ARTICLE for some ideas.
Keep in mind that sod is a living, perishable plant that we have cut fresh-to-order so that you can transplant it into your yard. To ensure that your new sod transplant successfully, first be sure your area is totally prepared and ready (check out THIS LINK). You must unroll and install the sod the day you receive it and water immediately and thoroughly (check out THIS LINK). Sod is mature grass that, once fully re-established in your yard (which takes about a year), it should be treated just as you would any other lawn. Proper watering, mowing, and fertilizing are the main pillars that will ensure your sod looks beautiful year to year. Proper thatching and aerating are also good to keep in mind. Purdue University’s Turfgrass Science Department offers a wealth of free science-based, regional information on all of these topics at https://turf.purdue.edu/homeowner-publications/
If your sod loses too much moisture after installation, gaps can start to appear due to sod shrinkage. It most often occurs within the first hours after installation. These gaps can easily be avoided if your new sod is kept consistently moist during the first couple weeks. Sod shrinkage can be anywhere from mild to very noticeable. The good news is that sod will tend to grow in to fill these gaps over time and with correcting your watering practices – especially with Kentucky Bluegrass sod. If you want to speed this up, try sprinkling soil in between the gaps or if the gaps are more severe, you might patch in small pieces of sod. Refer to our Early & Long Term Sod Care Guide or give us a call when in doubt – 574-232-6811 is the number to call.
We would NOT recommend this. Sod is a living, perishable plant, so it needs to be cared for properly. Sod is more perishable in hot humid weather than in either the spring or fall, so the weather should always be considered. What happens is that because the turfgrass sod plants contain a lot of nitrogen, your sod can easily heat up and begin to ferment (or basically COOK) if left rolled up. Covering a pallet and/or watering the sod while rolled up, especially in hot weather, will make the problem worse.
If you absolutely cannot install all of your sod within 24 hours, to help prolong the shelf life of your sod, here are few tips:
The height of the grass should be kept at 2-2 ½”. For one thing, this helps to avoid the grass from burning in heat. However, the general rule-of-thumb of “mowing properly” means not to take more than 1/3 of the grass blades off during a mowing. If you cut more than ⅓ of the blade at once, you may shock the plant, especially in hot weather. It’s likely that you will need to mow your new sod before it is completely rooted. We’d recommend use a push mower and being mindful of pivoting during the first couple of weeks. Also, for healthy growth and to prevent fungus issues, it’s always important to keep your mower blade sharp so you the grass blades get a clean cut. This promotes healthy growth and helps to prevent fungus issues. We also recommend that you leave the grass clippings on the lawn (unless they are so long they smother the grass underneath). Grass clippings are basically FREE FERTILIZER, as they add nutrients and moisture back into the soil as they decompose. For more on mowing, check out THIS LINK from Purdue University’s Turfgrass Department.
For a female dog or immature male dog, you will especially notice burned or discolored spots on your lawn due to urine concentrated in a smaller area since they squat when they urinate. With a mature male dog, it is less likely that you will experience lawn spots because male dogs typically lift their legs and urinate on bushes, poles, and other landmarks (GOOD DOGGY!). Chemically, dog urine is basically a salt solution and contains ammonia (among other things). When a female dog or immature male dog urinates on the lawn, they quite thoroughly cover the grass blades with this salt solution. The salts draw moisture out of the grass, which leaves the spot looking wilted at first, and in a day or so it starts turning brown where the grass has been killed. Then, the grass will tend to green up in a circle around the dead spot because the nitrogen in the urine is taken up by healthy roots (this nitrogen is basically free fertilizer, but not terribly helpful). You’ll notice this more in warmer temperatures, so in the wintertime, it is less likely that your grass will burn.
So, that’s the “what’s going on” part, but what can you do? If you want to try to minimize the damage, whenever you see a dog urinate on your lawn, the only “magic cure” that is guaranteed to help is to immediately douse the area with water which will wash the salts / nitrogen in the urine off of the grass plants. By diluting the urine with enough water, burn spots will not develop. To take things a step further, you might try to set your sprinkler timer to come on every day for 2-3 minutes to coincide with your dog’s schedule of “watering your lawn” with harmful salts.
As part of their natural lifecycle, all grasses go to seed at some point during the season. This is how grass reproduces and ensures survival over time. Roughly speaking, both Bluegrass and Fescue grasses tend to go to seed between the middle of May and the 1st of July. Some people ask if they can use the seeds to replant other areas, however, in a lawn situation this process rarely produces a viable seed to grow new plants. Aesthetically, yes, your lawn looks different for a while, but you can “fix it” by mowing a bit more often and by making sure you have a sharp mower blade.
In general, an early spring and early fall fertilization program is recommended. Use reliable, good quality fertilizer and follow the label. If you want to purchase fertilizer with Red Hen, and receive some free fact-based and regionally specific advice along the way, we’re here for that. Also, check out our article, “Top 5 Reasons Why Your Fertilizer Isn’t Performing Like You Think It Should” to get you started in the right direction.
First, let’s address the common misunderstanding that if you’re seeing moles in your yard, there must be a grub problem. In reality, the main part of a mole’s diet is EARTHWORMS and they eat very few grubs. Every year is different as far as how common spotting grubs might be. Grubs are rarely a problem in Red Hen’s farm operation. At worst, they may infest a small area in a field. We merely focus harvest on a different area if grubs become an issue. Due to their lifecycle, grubs do not present a long-term problem. If you spot a few grubs in your sod or yard at any point, most often there’s no need to worry too much – it’s completely natural. On the other hand, if you spot grubs in your brand new sod, please don’t hesitate to let us know so we can adjust things on our end.
That said, if you’re considering applying a grub control product to your yard, we’d recommend that you first consider whether it’s necessary. Almost every yard has grubs. Most grubs do very little harm. Most experts in the area of insects believe that UNTIL you reach 5-10 grub larvae PER SQUARE FOOT, there are not enough of them in one location to do damage to your lawn. But, let’s assume you are concerned you have enough grubs to do some damage.
When it comes to choosing the best insecticide product to apply, it may seem there is an endless number of choices that are for sale. It’s easy for homeowners to waste way too much money and time applying the wrong chemicals. Basically, there are two main factors to look at when it comes to choosing a product to kill grubs: (1) the time of the year you are applying it, and (2) what type of grub you want killed. To learn more about both of these factors, check out THIS ARTICLE we wrote on our blog.
Besides keeping in mind that moles are after earthworms and not grubs, trapping is the most reliable method of mole control. All the other urban myths you may have heard such as pouring Listerine down the holes or using ultrasonic devices are all just a waste of money. Check out THIS LINK to see what Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Department has to say about moles – all based on SCIENCE and not “Old Wives Tales.”
In winter months, your lawn’s grass typically will turn brown? This is a normal response to winter conditions — your grass has simply gone into a dormant or resting stage. Though your grass may look dead, it is alive and is waiting for the air and soil temperatures to rise in late March to early April. Once this happens, the turf color will begin to green up and start growing again.
Compared to the perennial ryegrasses and fescue grasses that are typical in the average yards in our area, Kentucky bluegrass sod needs MORE time, MORE warmth, MORE sunlight, and MORE nutrients to GREEN-UP in the spring. This is simply a natural result of the genetics of the Kentucky bluegrass sod. To help speed things along a bit, though, you might consider an early spring application of fertilizer and mowing off the brown tips.
Good question! Newly installed sod takes about a year or a full growing season to be considered fully established, with a fully developed root system. A healthy, established lawn is more forgiving and durable that a newly laid, still-establishing lawn. Watering an ESTABLISHING yard versus an ESTABLISHED yard are two different things – and the hotter and dryer it is, the more this will become apparent. Some general tips to follow when it comes to watering your ESTABLISHED lawn are:
Lawns that are still establishing tend to need more water overall – but again, slopes and shade can make a difference.
To dive in deeper, check out Purdue’s free guide on Irrigation Practices for Homelawns (CLICK HERE)
Unfortunately, because sod is immediately perishable, we cannot accept returns. On the other hand, we are committed to providing only the freshest sod available, and should you ever have questions or concerns – now or years from now – we’re here to help troubleshoot. We’re easily able to do this remotely by phone, text, and by sharing photos that show the story of what is happening around the affected area.
Red Hen does not make a special trip to return to your site to pick pallets up, so the question often arises about how to deal with our custom-made pallets after your sod delivery. Check out THIS ARTICLE for some ideas.
Keep in mind that sod is a living, perishable plant that we have cut fresh-to-order so that you can transplant it into your yard. To ensure that your new sod transplant successfully, first be sure your area is totally prepared and ready (check out THIS LINK). You must unroll and install the sod the day you receive it and water immediately and thoroughly (check out THIS LINK). Sod is mature grass that, once fully re-established in your yard (which takes about a year), it should be treated just as you would any other lawn. Proper watering, mowing, and fertilizing are the main pillars that will ensure your sod looks beautiful year to year. Proper thatching and aerating are also good to keep in mind. Purdue University’s Turfgrass Science Department offers a wealth of free science-based, regional information on all of these topics at https://turf.purdue.edu/homeowner-publications/
If your sod loses too much moisture after installation, gaps can start to appear due to sod shrinkage. It most often occurs within the first hours after installation. These gaps can easily be avoided if your new sod is kept consistently moist during the first couple weeks. Sod shrinkage can be anywhere from mild to very noticeable. The good news is that sod will tend to grow in to fill these gaps over time and with correcting your watering practices – especially with Kentucky Bluegrass sod. If you want to speed this up, try sprinkling soil in between the gaps or if the gaps are more severe, you might patch in small pieces of sod. Refer to our Early & Long Term Sod Care Guide or give us a call when in doubt – 574-232-6811 is the number to call.
We would NOT recommend this. Sod is a living, perishable plant, so it needs to be cared for properly. Sod is more perishable in hot humid weather than in either the spring or fall, so the weather should always be considered. What happens is that because the turfgrass sod plants contain a lot of nitrogen, your sod can easily heat up and begin to ferment (or basically COOK) if left rolled up. Covering a pallet and/or watering the sod while rolled up, especially in hot weather, will make the problem worse.
If you absolutely cannot install all of your sod within 24 hours, to help prolong the shelf life of your sod, here are few tips:
The height of the grass should be kept at 2-2 ½”. For one thing, this helps to avoid the grass from burning in heat. However, the general rule-of-thumb of “mowing properly” means not to take more than 1/3 of the grass blades off during a mowing. If you cut more than ⅓ of the blade at once, you may shock the plant, especially in hot weather. It’s likely that you will need to mow your new sod before it is completely rooted. We’d recommend use a push mower and being mindful of pivoting during the first couple of weeks. Also, for healthy growth and to prevent fungus issues, it’s always important to keep your mower blade sharp so you the grass blades get a clean cut. This promotes healthy growth and helps to prevent fungus issues. We also recommend that you leave the grass clippings on the lawn (unless they are so long they smother the grass underneath). Grass clippings are basically FREE FERTILIZER, as they add nutrients and moisture back into the soil as they decompose. For more on mowing, check out THIS LINK from Purdue University’s Turfgrass Department.
For a female dog or immature male dog, you will especially notice burned or discolored spots on your lawn due to urine concentrated in a smaller area since they squat when they urinate. With a mature male dog, it is less likely that you will experience lawn spots because male dogs typically lift their legs and urinate on bushes, poles, and other landmarks (GOOD DOGGY!). Chemically, dog urine is basically a salt solution and contains ammonia (among other things). When a female dog or immature male dog urinates on the lawn, they quite thoroughly cover the grass blades with this salt solution. The salts draw moisture out of the grass, which leaves the spot looking wilted at first, and in a day or so it starts turning brown where the grass has been killed. Then, the grass will tend to green up in a circle around the dead spot because the nitrogen in the urine is taken up by healthy roots (this nitrogen is basically free fertilizer, but not terribly helpful). You’ll notice this more in warmer temperatures, so in the wintertime, it is less likely that your grass will burn.
So, that’s the “what’s going on” part, but what can you do? If you want to try to minimize the damage, whenever you see a dog urinate on your lawn, the only “magic cure” that is guaranteed to help is to immediately douse the area with water which will wash the salts / nitrogen in the urine off of the grass plants. By diluting the urine with enough water, burn spots will not develop. To take things a step further, you might try to set your sprinkler timer to come on every day for 2-3 minutes to coincide with your dog’s schedule of “watering your lawn” with harmful salts.
As part of their natural lifecycle, all grasses go to seed at some point during the season. This is how grass reproduces and ensures survival over time. Roughly speaking, both Bluegrass and Fescue grasses tend to go to seed between the middle of May and the 1st of July. Some people ask if they can use the seeds to replant other areas, however, in a lawn situation this process rarely produces a viable seed to grow new plants. Aesthetically, yes, your lawn looks different for a while, but you can “fix it” by mowing a bit more often and by making sure you have a sharp mower blade.
In general, an early spring and early fall fertilization program is recommended. Use reliable, good quality fertilizer and follow the label. If you want to purchase fertilizer with Red Hen, and receive some free fact-based and regionally specific advice along the way, we’re here for that. Also, check out our article, “Top 5 Reasons Why Your Fertilizer Isn’t Performing Like You Think It Should” to get you started in the right direction.
First, let’s address the common misunderstanding that if you’re seeing moles in your yard, there must be a grub problem. In reality, the main part of a mole’s diet is EARTHWORMS and they eat very few grubs. Every year is different as far as how common spotting grubs might be. Grubs are rarely a problem in Red Hen’s farm operation. At worst, they may infest a small area in a field. We merely focus harvest on a different area if grubs become an issue. Due to their lifecycle, grubs do not present a long-term problem. If you spot a few grubs in your sod or yard at any point, most often there’s no need to worry too much – it’s completely natural. On the other hand, if you spot grubs in your brand new sod, please don’t hesitate to let us know so we can adjust things on our end.
That said, if you’re considering applying a grub control product to your yard, we’d recommend that you first consider whether it’s necessary. Almost every yard has grubs. Most grubs do very little harm. Most experts in the area of insects believe that UNTIL you reach 5-10 grub larvae PER SQUARE FOOT, there are not enough of them in one location to do damage to your lawn. But, let’s assume you are concerned you have enough grubs to do some damage.
When it comes to choosing the best insecticide product to apply, it may seem there is an endless number of choices that are for sale. It’s easy for homeowners to waste way too much money and time applying the wrong chemicals. Basically, there are two main factors to look at when it comes to choosing a product to kill grubs: (1) the time of the year you are applying it, and (2) what type of grub you want killed. To learn more about both of these factors, check out THIS ARTICLE we wrote on our blog.
Besides keeping in mind that moles are after earthworms and not grubs, trapping is the most reliable method of mole control. All the other urban myths you may have heard such as pouring Listerine down the holes or using ultrasonic devices are all just a waste of money. Check out THIS LINK to see what Purdue’s Turfgrass Science Department has to say about moles – all based on SCIENCE and not “Old Wives Tales.”
In winter months, your lawn’s grass typically will turn brown? This is a normal response to winter conditions — your grass has simply gone into a dormant or resting stage. Though your grass may look dead, it is alive and is waiting for the air and soil temperatures to rise in late March to early April. Once this happens, the turf color will begin to green up and start growing again.
Compared to the perennial ryegrasses and fescue grasses that are typical in the average yards in our area, Kentucky bluegrass sod needs MORE time, MORE warmth, MORE sunlight, and MORE nutrients to GREEN-UP in the spring. This is simply a natural result of the genetics of the Kentucky bluegrass sod. To help speed things along a bit, though, you might consider an early spring application of fertilizer and mowing off the brown tips.
Good question! Newly installed sod takes about a year or a full growing season to be considered fully established, with a fully developed root system. A healthy, established lawn is more forgiving and durable that a newly laid, still-establishing lawn. Watering an ESTABLISHING yard versus an ESTABLISHED yard are two different things – and the hotter and dryer it is, the more this will become apparent. Some general tips to follow when it comes to watering your ESTABLISHED lawn are:
Lawns that are still establishing tend to need more water overall – but again, slopes and shade can make a difference.
To dive in deeper, check out Purdue’s free guide on Irrigation Practices for Homelawns (CLICK HERE)
